'If anyone has tried to talk you out of visiting India, read this'

If you're planning to visit a city with 33 million people you could probably benefit from a few expert tips.

We're here to help.

I'm talking about Delhi. Technically, the capital of India is New Delhi which is actually just a small administrative zone inside the larger city of Delhi so I'm just going to call it Delhi which is the whole box and dice.

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Where do you start with something like this? Well, congratulations on getting this far.

If you've decided to go to India no doubt people have tried to talk you out of it. The heat, the crowds, the poverty. Yes, India has all those things but that is really underselling this country.

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It's colourful, it's chaotic, it's challenging, and around every corner is something surprising that will uplift your spirits or break your heart.

So, if you're looking for a fly 'n' flop holiday around the pool this ain't it. 

As someone who has been there three times in recent years these are my top tips to get the most out of your stay.

1. Book a tour

If this is your first time to India I highly recommend this. A small group tour, though. You don't want to be bussed around the country with 50 people. 

I can vouch for Intrepid Travel (although I have no affiliation with them). Maximum group size is 16 but most often around 10. Led by locals. That's the key. Local knowledge of the customs and nuances of getting around.

The smaller group will also make you feel more like a traveller than a tourist. My guess is that if you've chosen India you've got a bit more of an adventurous spirit and want to keep that sense of independence.

2. Walk the streets

You can't get a feel for India from inside an air-conditioned bus. From the outside Delhi can look chaotic but once you get out and walk with the crowds you'll understand there is rhythm on the streets.

After you walk around for a while you'll get in lock-step with that rhythm and start to feel a lot more comfortable in the crowds. 

Everyone on the street is walking with purpose. Everyone is going somewhere and has something to do. Strolling around town is a luxury that tourists have. No local is out just to stretch their legs.

3. Don't try and see everything

A city of 33 million can be exhausting so target a few big ticket items you want to see and leave some chilling and chai time.

To get a good understanding of the culture and the history you need to see a mix of  ancient and contemporary, Hindu & Muslim and for better or worse the British influence.

So you're going to end up with a list of temples, monuments, gardens, public buildings and little neighbourhoods. Start with a longer list and trim it down. 

4. Getting around

Transport is not expensive in Delhi. Your choices are bus, metro, taxis and tuk-tuks. Taxis are the most expensive. I would avoid the buses. They are VERY crowded and, of course, subject to the whims of Delhi traffic.

The metro is clean and efficient with a 99 per cent on-time rating.

They can also get very crowded in peak hours but the saving grace for solo female travellers is they have women only cars so you are not getting crushed up against a carriage full of strangers.

But generally speaking my pick for a trip of 2km-10km would be a tuk-tuk.

Cheap, fun and they can weave quickly through the heavy traffic. You can negotiate a price in advance so you don't have to worry about keeping an eye on the meter.

5. Eating

Eating is probably the biggest fear of first-time travellers to India. Delhi Belly is real but can be avoided.

I've never had it, because I've been cautious but not to the point where I've been too afraid to try things. The two main tips are easy: no tap water, no salads (unless it's in a high end restaurant). 

Unlike in Australia where restaurants will promote themselves as vegetarian, the opposite is true in Hindu-majority India. You will see signs saying "Non Veg" to attract meat eaters.

I have to say as a Non-Veg person myself I usually eat vegetarian in India because it's prepared so deliciously.  

If you want to try street food, which I'd recommend, the best (and safest) things are samosas, pakora, onion bhaji or anything deep fried in front of you.

That also goes for anything from a big boiling vat. Basically you want to eat street food cooked on the spot. I wouldn't eat anything that is just sitting in a warmer. 

One of the great joys of travelling in India is drinking chai. It's available from street vendors right across Delhi and you'll pay anywhere from 20c to 60c a cup. Again, get it from someone boiling it up in front of you. Don't buy it served from a thermos.   

6. Culture and customs

As noted Hindu is the dominant religion but there's been a long Muslim history in Delhi and most of the big forts and monuments were built by Muslim rulers. There are also Sikhs, Jains, Christians and Buddhists.

So respect the dress codes whenever you visit a temple or shrine. The Muslim places of worship in particular will require women to cover shoulders, arms and legs and wear a headscarf. Men will need to cover shoulders and knees but long pants preferred.

Avoid this, do that - it might sound like a lot of rules but suggestions like the above are designed to enhance your Delhi experience not hinder it. By all means just arrive and go for it but I think you'll find a little knowledge of the city and how it ticks will go a long way.

7. My top things to do in Delhi, India

Humayun's Tomb

This is the number one thing I would see if I only had time for one attraction. This place is sometimes called the "other Taj Mahal" and you can see why.

It was constructed 60 years before the Taj and clearly had a big influence on its design. It was only opened to the public in 2013 after a massive renovation. It was worth the wait, though. It's an extraordinarily beautiful building.

The Red Fort

The classic Delhi landmark from the team that brought you the Taj Mahal - Shah Jahan and his architect Ustad Lahori. This was the main residence of the Mughal Emperors. It's massive. 104 hectares enclosed by 2.5km of defensive walls. 

Jama Masjid

Across the road from the Red Fort is another Shah Jahan/Ustad Lahori masterpiece, The Jama Masjid mosque is a stunning piece of architecture set off by the exquisite chandelier in the main prayer hall. 

Gandhi Smirtri

This was the last place Mahatma Gandhi lived and he was assassinated here in the gardens of this house in 1948. It's quite an eerie experience. You can retrace his final steps to the exact spot he was gunned down which is marked by a memorial column. 

Lodhi Art District

It's easy to get history overload so make sure you get around and see the contemporary, arty side of Delhi.  The Lodhi Art District is India's first open-air public art district. It only opened in 2016 and very few tourists seem to know about it. Doesn't at all feel like what you think of as India with a colourful collection of murals and street art.

Sunder Nursery

If you're looking for some serious chill time the Sunder Nursery is just the ticket. Thirty-six hectares of beautiful, peaceful gardens including six World Heritage monuments. It was established by the Mughals in the 1500s but the British used it in the early 20th century as a nursery to grow the trees that line all of Delhi's major thoroughfares.

John Walsh was Executive Producer of the TV travel series Getaway from 1999-2024. You can follow John on Instagram @thegetawayexpert.

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