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Everything you need to know about a cruise to Antarctica - from someone who's just been there

Kerri Elstub

A cruise to Antarctica is like no other holiday you will ever do. A couple of weeks after my return I am still raving about it to friends eager to know more.

This is not your traditional cruise, drinking cocktails by the pool for a week. This is expedition cruising, where your days are spent exploring this frozen wonder with daily landings and zodiac cruises.

For this kind of travel, you need a particular kind of ship that can balance expedition launches with the creature comforts travellers have come to expect from cruising.

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HX (formerly known as  Hurtigruten Expeditions), the leader in mindful expedition travel, today announced a  pioneering global partnership with the University of Tasmania and its Institute for Marine  and Antarctic Studies

We're onboard the MS Fridtjof Nansen for the Highlights of Antarctica cruise. Supplied

We're onboard the MS Fridtjof Nansen for the Highlights of Antarctica cruise.  Named after the Norwegian explorer and Nobel Peace Prize winner, the Nansen is the latest addition to HX Hurtigruten Expeditions fleet of custom built ships.

Join us for a tour as we take you through everything you need to know about your new home. 

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Where you start exploring

Let's start with the most exciting part - the Expedition launch zone. When you board the ship, you'll be given a group name. We were the Giant Petrels (birds). This is the group you'll go exploring with.

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kerri elstub antarctica cruise HX hurtigruten expeditions

Each day when you're in Antarctica, you'll go on various expeditions. Nine/Supplied

Each day when you're in Antarctica, you'll go on various expeditions. When your group name is called you head down to level three, scan out of the ship with your room key, and board the zodiac for your adventures. This works like a well oiled machine.  When you return, if you've been on land, you'll need to wash your boots in what looks like a mini car wash to ensure you've brought nothing back on the ship, and you'll scan back in with your room card so the crew knows you're back. This will be your favourite part of the day.  

What you'll wear

When you go exploring, preparation is the key. HX will provide you with a waterproof jacket, as well as a life jacket and rubber boots that are mandatory to wear.  You need to bring waterproof pants, thermals, a fleece or jumper and some good thick socks.  You'll also want a beanie, perhaps a neck warmer and a phone case that has a cord on it. Dress like you're going skiing and you'll be fine.

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When you're not exploring, you don't have to be dressed to the nine's. Go for it if you'd like, but we found jeans, jumper or lounge wear were the best options. And have some decent sneakers for walking on the top deck.

kerri elstub antarctica cruise HX hurtigruten expeditions

HX will provide you with a waterproof jacket, as well as a life jacket and rubber boots. Nine/Supplied

Where you'll spend most of your time

The Explorer Lounge and bar on deck 10 is where you'll want to position yourself when you're not off exploring. With day beds, bar stools and swivel chairs, you can grab a hot drink or a cocktail (I recommend the Aperol Sour and mulled wine) while attempting the impossible task of taking it all in through the floor to ceiling windows. You can also grab cookies, cake and bar snacks here. 

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MS Fridtjof Nansen HX

The Explorer Lounge and bar on deck 10. HX

antarctica cruise hx

The lounge has a touch of Christmas while we were onboard. Nine/Supplied

Where you'll eat

The ship offers three different restaurants for guests. Aune is the main dining room where breakfast, lunch and dinner is served. Breakfast and lunch are buffet style, while dinner is a combination of buffet and a three course a la carte menu on alternate nights. We had some great meals here, including a New Year's Eve feast and Beef Wellington on the last night. And yes, for the Aussie explorers, if you look for it, there's Vegemite on the condiment table!

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We favoured Fredheim, a more laid-back atmosphere and menu with burgers, steaks, tortillas and legendary milkshakes.  It's a toss up, but I'm going to give the award to the vanilla milkshake, just slightly edging out chocolate. You can also order takeaway from Fredheim to eat in your cabin. 

MS Fridtjof Nansen Restaurant Fredheim

We favoured Fredheim, a more laid-back atmosphere and menu with burgers and steaks. HX

For the suite guests, there is Lindstrom, the ship's fine dining restaurant. Other passengers can pay to experience dinner here too. 

There's also a pool bar. Even though you're doing a cold weather cruise, you can still grab a warm or cold drink and I've gotta tell you, the pool is warm and the hot tubs are a steamy welcome, especially after you've done a polar plunge. 

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You'll have plenty of options for a warm or cold beverage around the ship. Nine/Supplied

Where you'll sleep

The Nansen offers interior cabins through to Expedition suites with their own hot tubs. You can see the Scandinavian influence in the materials and design. We stayed in a balcony cabin. The bed was so cozy, it was hard to drag ourselves out of there to make breakfast in time. The shower is strong and most importantly, the storage is abundant for a cruise ship. And given the sun barely disappears, the blackout curtains are a god send.

MS Fridtjof Nansen hx cabins

The Nansen offers interior cabins through to Expedition suites. HX

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Where you'll learn

HX Hurtigruten Expedition prides itself on science and education programs. There's an onboard science centre, lecture hall and small library where you can take part in specialty workshops and lecturers to gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of Antarctica. There's also an online course you can do in conjunction with the University Of Tasmania to truly immerse yourself. 

There are onboard scientists and experts from around the world who are actively taking part in research projects from weather to whale populations. You can physically take part in Citizen Science projects and help collect samples on the popular Science Boat expeditions. 

Along with mandatory briefings on visiting Antarctica, there are regular talks each day on everything from what you've seen, to the Antarctic Treaty and my personal favourite, female explorers of the region. 

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We were very lucky with the weather to enjoy the outdoor decks. Nine/Supplied

Where you can take it all in

Despite being nice and cozy inside the Fridtjof Nansen, you'll want to spend plenty of time on level 11, the observation deck. We were lucky enough to have pretty good weather, so we spent at least an hour up here each day using the outdoor running track (I was most definitely not running!) and marvelling at what has to be the best place in the world to exercise. There's also an outdoor gym up here, but I favoured the indoor version on level six that was more my speed.

Where you can relax

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There's a lot to see and do in Antarctica, so to wind down there's a wellness centre for massages, facials and other treatments. Be sure to check out the sauna too. If you're going to sweat it out, do it while looking at icebergs through the massive windows!

The writer travelled as a guest of HX Hurtigruten Expeditions

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