'It's been 20 years since I first visited this iconic Aussie holiday spot. Now it's better than I remember.'

It was the year Steve Irwin died, we grooved to the High School Musical film and everyone joined Facebook (though we still used MSN Messenger to chat).

I texted on a flip phone, straightened my hair every morning with GHD's and went to Darling Harbour for cocktails at the weekend.

And 2006 was also the year I visited Tropical North Queensland for the first (and only) time.

READ MORE: The best new walks in Australia - including a completely unique way to see Uluru

I'd lived in Australia for about a year, and while I'd planned to travel around I'd landed a job in Sydney instead and decided to stay.

But I was keen to explore when I was on holidays.

So, to coincide with a visit from my mum, myself and my now long-gone ex splashed out on a trip to Cairns.

View gallery

The world's best beach has been crowned for 2026

I probably decided on it after flicking though my Rough Guide to Australia book... (remember those?)

We stayed at the Mercure, a thrilling experience for a backpacker used to dorms.

READ MORE: The best campsites in Australia for a night under the stars, according to new study

I recall being fascinated by a lace monitor munching a fish at Cape Tribulation on a bus tour.

Venturing to the Great Barrier Reef was also memorable - and not just because the boat there was so horrifically rocky, we used my mum's credit card to get a chopper back.

While I recall melting in the heat, we loved the nature, scenery, and tropical feel.

And I've always meant to return, but never made it - until now.

I even got to take my mum again.

READ MORE: 'I've always wanted to visit an overwater bungalow in Bora Bora, but I think I just found a better option'

A visit to Queensland 20 years in the making

We've had a glow up over the past two decades (honestly those wrap-around sunnies were hip 20 years ago ) and so has Cairns.

The huge Esplanade Lagoon, a public pool on the seafront, is the highlight of a city which is the main base for adventures around this way.

This time though we stayed at Palm Cove, an upmarket resort village further north.

After landing on our Jetstar flight from Sydney (it's a tad over three hours and there are multiple flights a day), we collected a hire car and got there in under 30 minutes.

Honestly, pulling up on the beachfront made us feel like were in Thailand.

The small spot has a few restaurants and shops alongside hotels and apartments and a lush holiday vibe.

And our hotel, The Reef House Adult's Retreat, was pretty unique.

There's multiple pools, a spa (I feel asleep during the massage which is my measure of merit) and a tasty restaurant.

But our favourite feature at the hotel (it was the first to open here, in the 70s) was one of the simplest and something I've never seen.

Dubbed The Brigadier's Bar after one-time owner, Brigadier David Thomson, not only does it still offer free punch and canapes each night like when it opened, it has another fun offering.

An honesty bar.

Yes, you help yourself to your tipples and snacks and write down what you'd had on a note as an IOU.

Like one of those road side farm stalls.... but with booze.

My mum even popped along in her dressing gown, and I think I drank them out of Coke Zero. Oops.

You can also borrow fishing rods and books and sign up for loads of other included activities such as wine tasting and yoga.

It was such a refreshing change from your usual bland chain hotel - and with only 67 rooms it had personal feel.

It's no wonder some folk we met have been staying there since the 1980s.

View gallery

These are the best mountain escapes around the world for 2026

Things to do in Palm Cove

"I'll never see scenery like that again."

It was high praise from my mum and I agree.

I've been to a lot of places in the world, but the views heading up to the rainforest village of Kuranda are unmatched.

We took the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway up (I can't look down!' mum said, holding onto the side) over the Barron Gorge National Park.

It even stops a couple of times so you can look into the World Heritage-listed rainforest on special boardwalks.

However, once we arrived at the village, we found most of the shops a little touristy.

Though we did enjoy browsing Not Just Chocolate, the Kuranda Art Collective and artist Didi La Baÿsse's shop.

The journey back however was momentous.

We hopped on the historic Kuranda Scenic Railway.

With 'gold class' tickets we were treated to wine and snacks as the train traversed down the valley.

And what a journey it was.

Past waterfalls, dramatic cliffs and lush forest it was truly jaw dropping - even more so when you learn about the men who toiled to build it.

Meanwhile, back in Palm Cove, simply pottering along the seafront was one of our favourite things to do.

It's the kind of place where everyone says 'hello', which was a refreshing change from Sydney.

I did reflect on how much my mum and I's lives have changed since our first visit, too.

I'm now married and settled in Sydney again after reluctantly returning to the UK not long after that first trip.

My mum has just hit 80 and is doing well despite one knee replacement and another planned.

Where to eat in Palm Cove

Upmarket Palm Cove is home to some great restaurants.

Nu Nu is a renowned spot run by famous chef Nick Holloway and shouldn't be missed. The vibes are a mix of tropical chic and Bali vibes (that again).

And it was the best meal I've eaten in a long time (I certainly don't recall visiting anywhere as swish on our first visit, but I was a backpacker).

With the tropical feel, loads to explore and top notch places to stay and eat, I'd go so far as to say this spot would be a good alternative to south-east Asia especially with spiking flight prices

And I certainly hope I don't have to wait 20 years to visit again.

The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Tropical North Queensland and Jetstar.

View gallery

The best spot in the world for sea swimming revealed