‘There will definitely not be a copy’: How Francesca Cumani’s custom Melbourne Cup dress came to life

Exclusive: Couture designer Sonia Cappellazzo wields a sewing pin as a Renaissance artist would a paintbrush.

She flits around Nine’s racing presenter Francesca Cumani like a fairy Godmother, with scissors and a pin cushion on her wrist, expertly nipping the waist and geometrically shaping the polka dot tail of the pale pink gown.

Cappellazzo has allowed us to step behind the curtain into her chic Hawthorn East atelier.

There are mere days before racing’s golden girl Cumani steps out onto Flemington Racecourse in a custom-made Cappellazzo Couture gown for the Melbourne Cup.

It’s mesmerising to witness this dress come to life in real-time.

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The unique piece is the lovechild of Cappellazzo’s masterful couture, Nine’s Network Style Manager Alex Wilson’s mood board and Cumani’s own timeless taste.

“Quite a lot of it is vintage-inspired, and a lot of it is about elegance and sophistication, and wearing something that really suits my body,” Cumani told nine.com.au.

“I was quite quick to identify the kind of silhouette that I liked, and then between Alex and Sonia, they came up with this beautiful creation.”

Cappellazzo was tasked with dressing an icon of fashion on the field.

Cumani is regularly named among spring racing’s best-dressed and every sartorial eye will be trained on her outfit.

“My racing outfits need to have a little bit of extra thought go into them because not only do I want to look gorgeous and great, but you’ve got to think about how the camera is working with you and the practicalities of the day,” Cumani explained.

“A lot of the time we’re at a desk, so you only see the top half, so that’s got to look really good.

“And then I’m also in the mountain yard walking around with the horses and talking about the horses.

“I think if you’re dressed a little bit too theatrical, it can slightly take away from the job that you’re trying to do.”

Though she describes herself as a “scruff jeans and t-shirt” kind of woman, the British-born racing expert craves elegance, sophistication and comfort in her race-day attire.

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Everyone in the room agreed that Cappellazzo nailed the brief by capturing Cumani’s effortless style with this on-trend yet inimitable design.

“You can’t beat classic elegance and a vintage heritage vibe,” Cappellazzo said.

Cumani said the final look embodies quiet luxury and “strikes the perfect balance” for the race that stops the nation.

The unusual neckline and polka-dot bustle bow coalesce beautifully with the structured pencil-cut style.

The presenter is particularly impressed in how it cinches at her waist.

“Sonia is brilliant at understanding the female form and really accentuating the waist,” Cumani added.

“The beauty of having these custom-made outfits is you can just have it perfectly made to your body.”

Cappellazzo and Cumani mesh well together.

Though the racing presenter is her muse, both designer and model are working in tandem to breathe life into this design.

They both speak Italian and are similarly fluent in the language of fashion.

“Initially when I put this gown on, because it’s all internally structured, immediately [Francesca] said, ‘Oh no, it’s too tight, it’s too tight’,” Cappellazzo told nine.com.au.

“I said to Francesca, just give it 20 minutes, and it will warm to your body because this is sculptured.

“And that’s exactly what’s happened.”

A lively debate takes place in front of the mirror about the shape and size of the polka-dot bow, which is unequivocally the hero of the piece.

Cumani and Cappellazzo also wonder if they should add another strap of polka dot fabric to the other shoulder.

The pair landed on an “organic, distorted” shape for the back of the gown and only one band of polka dots across the bodice.

“Those little details just make it more elevated,” Cappellazzo added.

“To me, this is what showcases something really beautiful and an original.

“You know there will definitely not be a copy of this out there.”

The powerhouse duo opted for simple black accessories to finish the look: a pair of black sheer heels and a small saucer fascinator.