‘Beyond disappointing’: Small business owner calls out major Aussie retailer for ‘copying’ her design

A small business owner is challenging ‘dupe’ culture, after her independent clothing brand’s signature design was allegedly copied by a major Aussie retailer.

Bessie Joseph, owner of Melbourne-based brand Khaos clothing, recently discovered a skirt almost identical to one she’d spent six months conceptualising had appeared on Universal Store’s website – at a far lower price point.

According to the designer, the idea for Khaos’ ‘Billie’ skirt came to her in October 2025, with the design process kicking off that same month. The final product was launched on Khaos’ website in April this year.

Months later, Joseph, 28, woke to a message from a friend claiming that a very similar ‘dupe’ of her design was being sold elsewhere for $90 – a markdown of the original $150 price tag.

In an Instagram post, Joseph addressed the similarities between the two skirts, temporarily lowering the price of her product to match Universal’s alleged “copy.”

“I’ve had a few friends send [photos of items similar to mine]. But this was pretty blatant, and from another Australian business as well,” Joseph told nine.com.au.

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“I’m a small, independent Australian fashion label, so seeing a major retailer release a skirt that [appears to be] a direct copy of the Billie Skirt is beyond disappointing.”

Universal Store has not responded to nine.com.au’s requests for comment.

This scenario is not uncommon, with dupe culture remaining prevalent across the Australian retail landscape as the cost of living soars.

Last year, Perth-based brands Signed + Sealed, Knitwit The Label and Deconduarte similarly accused fast fashion retailers Peppermayo, Glassons, Lioness, Ali Express and Shein of duplicating a number of their designs.

“It definitely has negative effects ... people in this cost-of-living crisis can’t afford to pay $500 for a dress, so they will always choose the cheaper option,” Deconduarte’s Michelle Teles told The West Australian at the time.

Data from a 2024 Australian Marketing Institute study showed how deeply ingrained the shopping habit is, with 54 per cent of Aussie women admitting to purchasing a cheaper designer duplicate over the original, higher-priced product.

Bessie Joseph is now calling for better protection for small businesses and designers just starting out – however, intellectual property lawyer Natalie Murray-Jones says the process is not that simple.

“In Australia, if a designer hasn’t registered their design with IP Australia, there’s really nothing stopping a bigger company from [allegedly] copying it,” she told nine.com.au.

According to Murray-Jones, the law doesn’t automatically protect the look of clothing unless you’ve gone through this process, which often costs far more than smaller designers can afford.

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As the owner of a business just getting off the ground, Joseph agreed it was “definitely not within her financial budget” to register her designs with IP Australia – nor to take legal action against bigger companies.

“Big brands know this, and they also know that small designers often don’t have the money or time to fight back, so they take the risk,” Murray-Jones said.

How those breaking into the industry can protect themselves and their work

Murray-Jones had one piece of advice: document the design and manufacturing process extensively – so in instances where a legal dispute is raised, evidence can be presented to confirm the timeline.

She also said using this evidence to publicly call out alleged copying on public platforms – as Khaos did – can also put pressure on bigger brands to “do the right thing.”

“Since legal options are limited and can be expensive, building a strong brand and loyal customer base is key,” she added.

On this point, Joseph has since acknowledged the “overwhelming” response from customers to her post, adding it could indicate a notable shift in how Aussies approach their purchases.

“I think a lot of people at the moment, in my demographic, are moving away from fast fashion and being a lot more conscious of [dupes] when shopping,” she said.