David Reyne unearths the breathtaking mountain backdrops of Walhalla, Victoria
Around two hours drive east of Melbourne, deep in the forested hills of Gippsland, lies a place that feels as though it was lifted from a history book and dropped into the mist.
David Reyne recently unearthed the unique heritage experiences and mountain backdrop of Walhalla, a former goldrush town.
Location:
Walhalla, Victoria
Costs:
Walhalla Goldfields Railway www.walhallarail.com.au
Tickets start at $40 for adults, $35 for kids & $100 for families
Walhalla’s Star Hotel www.starhotel.com.au
Rooms start at $280 per night including dinner and breakfast
Prices correct at 19.09.26
Highlights:
Walhalla is not merely a town; it’s a time capsule where the weatherboard cottages grip the hillsides and the creeks chatter with an insistent, ancient energy.
For those looking to escape the modern world, this former goldrush town offers a journey 140 years into the past, into a landscape where time didn’t just slow down - it rusted to the spot.
Beneath the current peaceful exterior lies a history written in struggle and ambition. In the 1860s, the valleys were no weekend retreat; they were the frontier of a goldrush, where men hacked at the earth in search of what they poetically called “lightning frozen in stone.“
Speaking with local guide Brian Brewer, David learned that Walhalla was far from being a quiet outpost, and was once the site of festive Saturday nights. After a grueling week in the tunnels, miners would flood the streets, flush with their weekly pay, dancing to bands playing in the rotunda. A necessary release in a town built on hard labour.
The goldrush might be long gone, but the glory days have been preserved through restorations and reconstructions of heritage buildings. David wandered through town, visiting the Old Walhalla Fire Station, which houses artefacts such as a 1903 Merryweather fire cart, which required a half-dozen men to pump water from the creek.
Then at the former post and telegraph office, which is now a museum run by volunteers, he browsed the extensive collection of local artefacts.
Next was a ride on the Walhalla Goldfields Railway, resurrected by a passionate team of railway enthusiasts. By consulting the original Victorian Railway blueprints, Walhalla Station is an exact replica from 1910.
David Reyne in Walhalla. Getaway
After decades of neglect, the lines were cleared, bridges mended, and eventually in 2002 a full 4 kms long track was opened for tourist trains from Walhalla to Thomson.
In the heart of town, the Star Hotel has been rebuilt with a replica verandah and frontage of the original gold-era days. While the outside looks authentic, the interior is modern and spacious with 12 suites and a guest lounge. The atmosphere is quiet and relaxing.
Born wild and tamed by time, the true value isn’t found in the gold that was once pulled from the rock, but in the enduring stories of the people who shaped this valley. Walhalla retains the off-the-grid mountain village feel, surrounded by stunning scenery, a peaceful destination for a weekend retreat or road-trip stopover.
