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This was published 2 years ago

Rocky Mountaineer review: 'There's one thing that makes this train journey so special'

Kerri Elstub

Cinderella had a glass slipper that led to her happily-ever-after. For me, well you can keep the slipper and give me a glass-topped train carriage every day of the week!

I'm onboard the world-famous Rocky Mountaineer. The bucket list journey of train and travel lovers from around the globe.  

We are travelling the First Passage To The West route, from Vancouver to Banff for two days of food, wine, travel tales and friendship, all framed by the jaw dropping scenery of the Rocky Mountains. All aboard!

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kerri on the rocky mountaineer the First Passage To The West route, from Vancouver to Banff

Kerri ticked off a bucket list item when boarding the Rocky Mountaineer. Nine/Supplied

The Train

I'm travelling in their GoldLeaf Service, seat 31. This is their five star carriage where the service and views compete with equal fervour. The GoldLeaf carriages feature a bi-level glass dome or see-through roof, so you can see every inch of the Canadian scenery.

A true mike-drop moment both when you board and when you get that first glimpse of the glorious Rockies. The leather reclining seats are generous with a footrest and most importantly, a seat warmer!

Like on a business class flight, there's a tray table in your arm rest which will get a great work out as you sip signature cocktails. Downstairs is the dining room, which is where we're heading right now for breakfast.

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The Food

The dedicated GoldLeaf dining room is where you'll be served daily breakfast and lunch. For breakfast, it's hard to decide between the Classic Eggs Benedict or the Lemon and Honey Buttermilk Pancakes. Eggs today, pancakes tomorrow! 

rocky mountaineer food

The Honey Buttermilk Pancakes were a hit for breakfast. Supplied

Lunch is a wonderful affair where you take your time chatting to fellow travellers as you dine on three gourmet courses (shared entree, main and dessert). I recommend the Striplion Steak and the Lemon Lavender Posset.

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How the kitchen staff manage to turn out this standard of food from a galley kitchen on a moving train is beyond me. Equally amazing are the wait staff who somehow manage to balance four plates, while effortlessly gliding around the carriage.

The Drinks

Whether it's an early morning coffee (hot chocolate for me!), wine at lunch or an afternoon cocktail, the premium drinks on offer in GolfLeaf mean your biggest decision of the day is what to have. I often spied a drink my fellow passengers were having, struck up a conversation and ordered one myself. 

I became partial to a Gin Rocky or two in the afternoon. Then just recline your seat, take a sip and try and attempt to take in the never-ending views through the window or the roof. I can also recommend Baileys on the rocks as you quietly roll into town.

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kerri on the rocky mountaineer the First Passage To The West route, from Vancouver to Banff

The exclusive outdoor viewing platform is perfect to stretch your legs and get some fresh air. Nine/Supplied

The Outdoor Viewing Platform

When you've got a busy schedule of eating, drinking and watching (it's very tiring!), it's a great idea to pop downstairs a few times a day to the exclusive outdoor viewing platform to stretch your legs, get some of that fresh mountain air and to take some incredible snaps of the scenery, the sunset, yourselves and the wildlife if you're lucky. We saw mountain goats and elk, while other passengers spotted some bears.

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The Scenery

You could really fill a book, and many have, talking about the incredible landscapes of Canada. And before you ask, there is no "best" side of the train as the scenery is forever changing in both nature and which side it appears on.  As you pull out of Vancouver and make your way to Kamloops, it's the beautiful rivers and lakes that will have you captivated.

kerri on the rocky mountaineer the First Passage To The West route, from Vancouver to Banff

The scenery is forever changing but always stunning. Nine/Supplied

Then as you journey towards Lake Louise and Banff, the Rocky Mountains rise before you. My words and photos will never do them justice.

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Be sure to put the phone or camera down and soak it all in from your seat or the viewing platform. It's a once-in-a-lifetime view from the Rocky Mountaineer, so be sure to commit it to memory.

The Organisation

Now, I am an organised person. I love a list, a schedule, and everything planned to a tee. Well, the Rocky Mountaineer team have me beat. The early morning hotel pick up from the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver is seamless. 

You're whisked to your seat and have a coffee and pastry in hand before you blink. Meal times are organised with both warmth and precision. But my favourite part, the luggage.

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You barely have to touch it. They not only take it to your hotel, but leave it inside your hotel room. They check you in and leave your bags waiting for you. The next morning, you pack your bags and leave them in your room, where the Rocky Moutaineer staff will take them to your next destination. Genius!  

rocky mountaineer hosts

The real heroes of this rail journey are your hosts.  Supplied

The Hosts

While the Rocky's are spectacular and the food is first-class, the real heroes of this rail journey are your hosts. In coach number 10, we had Brooklyn, Kelsey, Meg and Carla looking after us.

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From dusk until dawn these indefatigable women lead our journey with charm, grace and loads of local knowledge. Serving drinks and lunch with a side of local history and geography.

They are the heart and soul of this Rocky Mountain adventure. And it's not just the hosts on the train either. Everyone from the shuttle drivers who talk proudly of their towns as they take you to your hotel, to the staff who line up and wave you away from the station platform this morning have the Rocky Mountaineer charm that only comes from loving what you do and wanting to share it with the world.

The writer travelled as a guest of Rocky Mountaineer.

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