Forget Bali or Thailand. This is the wellness holiday you need to take
Sitting crossed-legged on a rock, I have my eyes closed and take a deep breath. The air is fresh and crisp, the early morning sunlight warm on my face.
There is a slight breeze, and the occasional rush of air as birds swoop nearby. But otherwise there is absolute stillness as I embark on a yoga session unlike any I have done before.
A wellness holiday of a very different kind. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Only one week earlier, I was nursing a sick toddler back to health from RSV and refinancing our home loan with a broker while juggling full-time work and other family commitments.
Fast-forward... and this week alone, I have done two yoga sessions, two guided meditations, had three massage treatments and tried Rasul mud therapy.
But I’m not at a special Balinese or Thai wellness retreat.
Instead, I’m in South Africa, learning about the powerful impact of combining wellness and wilderness.
We could not have asked for better weather to enjoy an early morning yoga session at the top of Cape Town’s iconic Table Mountain.
The session is being hosted by German national Stefanie Dohrmann of In Motion tours, who offers a range of hiking, yoga, and picnic experiences in South Africa.
Stefanie has been teaching yoga for 15 years and meets us at the cable car entrance to take us to the top of the mountain. The first ride leaves at 8:30am and the line moves quickly (during summer peak season, wait times can blow out to 3–4 hours).
The cable car itself has a rotating floor and open sides, making the ascent a special experience in itself. But once we’re up the top and take in the views that will surround us as we practice yoga, it becomes a real “pinch-me” moment.
What a view to yoga to. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Usually, I like to keep my eyes closed when doing yoga, but that’s a hard ask with Cape Town sprawling out before us. Clouds roll in from the west over the mountainside, cascading over Devils Peak – a phenomenon that gives the mountain its “tablecloth” nickname.
Meanwhile, the red-winged starlings, with their shiny black feathers and bright rust-red wing patches, continue their aerial dance around us. Before I know it, the 60-minute session is over.
Stefanie says the tours are, of course, weather-dependant so it’s important to allow a buffer day or two when booking.
And if yoga is not your thing, she offers a range of tour types for people of all fitness levels.
“We get couples, families. I have proposals on my hikes, which is also really cool. I have a package offering a picnic with a view on the way so you don’t have to bring anything,” she says.
The weather was perfect for our Table Mountain visit. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
“We also do overnight hikes. We go up Table Mountain from the Kirstenbosch side, either for new moon or for full moon.”
Guests stay in a cottage that can sleep up to 16 people. “We do all the catering. We do yoga and enjoy the sunset and sunrise together.”
Why South Africa is the ultimate wellness escape
South Africa remains a bucket list destination for many travellers for the chance to do a safari. But as I discovered on this trip, the country has so much more to offer, especially for those seeking a wellness escape.
Wellness tourism has seen a huge surge in search interest in the last few years, in part thanks to a post-COVID mindset shift toward prioritising our health.
The global wellness tourism industry is predicted to be worth around $1.35 trillion in 2028. That’s more than double what it was just a few years ago.
Cape Town has so much on offer. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Though ‘wellness tourism’ might conjure images of $1000-a-night retreats, it doesn’t have to be like that.
This is where South Africa delivers. From the natural beauty of Cape Town to the vineyards of surrounding areas like Stellenbosch, you’ll get a mix of wellness, luxury hospitality, local culture, nature and adventure.
An ecopsychology experience
For those keen to completely shift their mindset, a wilderness retreat grounded in ecopsychology is something worth having on your radar.
I’d never heard of ecopsychology specifically before, so it was a real highlight to be able to experience a nature and wellness talk with psychiatrist and ecopsychology pioneer Dr Jeffery Rink.
Rink has been doing ecopsychology since 1998, and hosts a range of wilderness retreats – called Soul Safaris – all over Africa.
“This is for people looking for a more meaningful and in-depth kind of African wilderness experience,” he says.
Baviaanskloof Waterfall is a moderate hike of just under two kilometres. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
After a 40-minute hike to the Baviaanskloof Waterfall, near Hout Bay just outside of Cape Town, we enjoyed a meditation led by Dr Rink, similar to sessions he offers on his retreats.
Sitting on the banks of the creek, listening to the water rushing by, he says meditating in nature is about “altering your consciousness”.
“It’s about healing in nature and also people healing nature,” he tells us.
“It puts you into a different headspace – instead of racing through a game reserve in a vehicle chasing the big five, to be in your boots, getting your pants dirty, being able to drink from a stream, and inhale the fresh air.
“When you spend several days in wilderness like this, it changes you. It changes your brainwaves, it changes how your body is functioning, and most important you learn more about yourself.”
Dr Jeffrey Rink led a meditation by the waterfall. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Food and wellness go hand in hand
Of course, wellness is not only about nourishing your mind but also your body, and Cape Town in particular is a hub of delicious food offerings. And what better way to explore a new city than through your stomach?
An Eat Like a Local tour will take you on a tasty journey through the city’s culture, heritage, and rich wine history.
And, as the name suggests, you will learn how to eat like a local. Lekker!
Led by Rupeesh and Stella, the three-hour walking tour kicks off with a visit to the Bo Kaap district, one of the most photographed spots in town.
Bo Kaap district is known for its colourful houses. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Here we find Faeeza’s Home Kitchen, actually made famous after a visit from Phil Rosenthal – the writer of Everybody Loves Raymond.
“Cooking class by day, family home by night. And out the front here, parking lot by night and tea garden by day,” Rupeesh says.
“Faeeza’s showcases the true sense of entrepreneurs. She empowers her family and the community.”
On our tasting plate is a samosa, a salomie (as Rupeesh called it an African burrito), and a chickpea ball.
Plus, I make my first acquaintance with a koesister – basically, a fried ball of dough rolled in desiccated coconut. We’re told this is the Cape Malay version of the dish; the other version, a koeksister, is also made of fried dough but infused in syrup or honey and a little crunchier.
Either way I had many, of both versions, throughout the day.
Local guide Rupeesh shares Cape Town's history via food. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
We visit Coffee at The Vine café in the Company’s Gardens and learn about Nelson Mandela’s favourite tea – Honey bush.
Another sweet treat comes in the form of a visit to Honest Chocolate, a small artisanal chocolate company where everything is hand-crafted.
As if that weren’t enough food, we finish the tour with a Braai – pronounced ‘bry’ – the South African equivalent of a barbecue.
Eat Like a Local also offering cooking tours if you are keen to get your hands dirty. And some of the ticket price – around $220 – goes towards organisations that provide food for the homeless.
The Company's Garden was the site of the vegetable and fruit gardens planted by settlers of the Dutch East India Company. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Braai is the South African equivalent of a barbecue. Supplied/Kristine Tarber
If you want to keep the food theme going and do something extra special, Fyn restaurant offers a “multisensory experience”.
Located on the fifth floor of Speaker’s Corner, above the vibrant hub of Cape Town’s city centre, you can sit down to a degustation menu of seven to eight courses. We were here after dark but were told it also has some of the best views in town.
The food is inspired by Japanese cuisine with local South African ingredients. Depending on what you choose, prices range between $150-$500 and you typically need to book your table well in advance.
FYN Restaurant combines Japanese cuisine with South African ingredients. Supplied/Kristine Tarber
We tried an eight-course "experience" menu. Supplied/Kristine Tarber
From the coast to the winelands
About an hour’s drive from Cape Town, a stay in the heart of the Cape Winelands adds another layer to this South African wellness experience.
Located in the university town of Stellenborsh, Lanzerac is a historic wine estate surrounded by vineyards and mountain backdrops.
The property combines heritage architecture with modern luxury, and offered a chance to really slow down and indulge.
Lanzerac Hotel and Spa is in Stellenborsh in the Cape Winelands. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
Lanzerac Hotel and Spa has 53 rooms, and I’m staying in one of the most unique. I’m in the old manor house, with a room that spans one wing of the top floor.
There is a huge bed tucked virtually within the rafters. That, plus the mix of antique furniture and floral accents, gives the room a cosy feel.
Then there was the bath – a beautiful tub situated right next to the window overlooking the vineyard and mountains beyond.
Downstairs the building had a common lounge room, walled book case, and fire place. I felt like I’d gone back in time and become the lady of the house.
My attic room in the Manor House of Lanzerac. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
This tub and this view were divine. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
A cellar tour and tastings are on offer. You can also duck into town for a meal. We tried Spek & Bone, and the baked camembert, potato gnocchi, and sweet sour pork were incredibly tasty.
Back at the estate, not only are you in a peaceful location surrounded by beautiful scenery, but the hotel has a spa offering to really help you unwind.
I tried their body wrap treatment that included a rejuvenating gel wrap, head and body massage. I was wrapped in a warm cocoon and definitely fell asleep.
There is also a heated pool, two hot tubs, a well-equipped gym, plus sauna and steam room.
One of the most incredible sunsets. Supplied/Kristine Tarbert
As if I wasn’t content enough, I then witnessed one of the most beautiful sunsets as the clouds turned a fiery pink over the mountains.
The next morning, I started my day with a workout, followed by a sauna, and felt ready to take on anything.
That was certainly the theme of this trip, and a feeling I’m desperately trying to hold on to now I’m back home.
The writer travelled as a guest of South Africa Tourism.
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