'I've sworn off Bali after discovering the Komodo Islands, a hidden gem one hour away'

Australians have been visiting Indonesia by the millions for decades but most Aussie travellers are guilty of making one fatal mistake: they never venture beyond Bali.

More than 1.5 million Australians visited Bali in 2024 alone, many of them hitting up tourist hotspots like Kuta, Ubud, and Uluwatu.

What they don't know is that Indonesia's greatest hidden gem is just a one-hour flight away.

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Welcome to the Komodo Islands, a pristine smattering of beaches, mountains and untouched coral reefs tucked away in the shadow of Flores.

Most Aussies who visit Bali never think to venture out to the islands, partly because they're off the beaten track and partly because the best (and sometimes only) way to experience them is on a liveaboard boat.

Fortunately for me, my uncle Mark Heighes is the captain of one such boat: the Seven Seas liveaboard.

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So when he suggested a family trip to explore the untouched islands that make up Komodo National Park this July, I jumped at the opportunity.

And now I'd never bother visiting Bali again, knowing I could trade the chaotic streets and packed beaches of that tourist hotspot for the white sand and crystal waters of the Komodo Islands instead.

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What is a liveaboard?

A liveaboard is a boat designed for people to live aboard it but unlike a major cruise ship, they only accommodate between 10 and 30 passengers.

In Indonesia, many liveaboards are traditional pinisi boats and look like something out of an old seafaring tale and the Seven Seas is no different.

A 40m Buginese schooner decked out in shades of cream and burgundy, it's fitted with nine luxe cabins and can carry up to 16 guests.

It looks old school but don't be fooled; this boat comes with every modern amenity you could ask for, from air conditioning to high-speed Wi-Fi.

Like most liveaboards, the Seven Seas offers a bunch of different itineraries, sailing the to the Komodo Islands, Raja Ampat and even Indonesia's 'Forgotten Islands'.

It's also kitted out with recreational scuba diving gear, as liveaboards are hugely popular among divers, but there's plenty to do for non-divers as well.

The activities

An experienced scuba diver, I did almost every dive that was offered on my trip and spotted everything from sleepy reef sharks to moray eels, turtles, and octopuses under the waves.

The non-divers certainly didn't miss out though.

There was a snorkelling option alongside every dive and the snorkellers saw just as much ocean life as the divers - sometimes more!

Two of the best wildlife sightings were actually snorkel-only experiences.

The first was when we all jumped in the water in the deep south of Komodo National Park to see the graceful manta rays around 'Manta Alley'.

Then, towards the end of the trip, we had the once in a lifetime opportunity to snorkel with colossal whale sharks feeding in a bay off the island of Sumbawa, west of Komodo.

Swimming with these incredible creatures was without a doubt the best part of my trip and the kind of unforgettable experience you just can't find in Bali.

Activities on the Seven Seas weren't limited to the water either.

As well as diving, snorkelling and swimming, guests could enjoy sunset treks to the peaks of almost uninhabited islands or exploring picturesque pink sand beaches.

We also got to enjoy a a show-stopping visit to Rinca island to see the Komodo dragons, which aren't found anywhere else in the world.

There was plenty of time for rest and relaxation too.

Afternoons were spent lounging on sunbeds, enjoying drinks in the galley, sunbaking on untouched beaches and playing spirited games of beach volleyball with the crew.

The rooms

Admittedly, I didn't spend much time in my room when I wasn't sleeping because there was so much to see and during my time on the Seven Seas.

Liveaboards are much smaller than cruise ships so the rooms are too, but what the Seven Seas' rooms lack in square footage they make up for in charm.

Each room is kitted out with an en-suite bathroom, plenty of cupboards and drawers for storage, air conditioning and wall outlets.

There are six rooms on the bottom deck, where portholes offer guests a peek out at the waters they're sailing on.

Meanwhile, the two cabins on the upper deck boast panoramic views of the islands and volcanoes that dot the seas around Indonesia.

My room, cabin nine on the top deck, came complete with a comfy king sized bed and windows along three of the walls, as well as a huge lounge space right outside the door to relax in while I watched the sun rise each morning.

The food

If you think the rooms are good, wait until you see the meals – all of which are included, so eat your heart out.

Each morning began with 'first breakfast' – a continental mix of self-serve fruit, cereal and pastries – before the first activity of the day, usually a dive or snorkel.

Then we'd have 'second breakfast' – a hot meal made to order each day, with everything from banana pancakes, to french toast, nasi goreng and a full English breakfast on the menu.

Lunch was usually a spread of Indonesian and Western fare, including heaping plates of curry, fried chicken, fresh seafood, hearty veggies and crisp salads.

The daily three-course dinner was even better, starting each night with a bowl of delicious soup, followed by a buffet of divine dishes, and wrapped up with dessert.

Each meal is served by members of the crew's service team who are always happy to make substitutions (they offered me a specially made bowl of salad sans coriander when they heard I wasn't a fan of the herb) and have a friendly chat.

They're even happy to whip you up a cocktail to enjoy as the sun sets over the sea – all you have to do is ask!

The verdict

This is the best (an in my opinion, only) way to see so many beautiful parts of Indonesia that you simply can't get in Bali.

Though pricey, it's a once in a lifetime experience that I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

Doubly so because it was the last holiday my fiancé and I will be taking before we get married next year.

While the liveaboard experience is definitely geared more towards adventure travel, I'd definitely recommend it for couples as well.

After all: how many couples can say they swam with whale sharks together?

Why go beyond Bali?

After seeing a whole new side of Indonesia on board the Seven Seas, I've sworn off visiting Bali for the rest of my life.

After the experience I had on the liveaboard I just don't see the same appeal in visiting Bali.

And I'm not the only one ditching the popular island for a more off-the-beaten-track experience.

"It's not that travellers are abandoning Bali altogether, but rather expanding their horizons across Indonesia, seeking more meaningful, immersive experiences in lesser-known regions," Simon Bell, Managing Director of Wendy Wu Tours Australia, recently told 9Travel.

"There's a growing curiosity to go beyond the usual and see what else the country has to offer."

My voyage was through the Komodo Islands and on to Sumbawa but the Seven Seas offers a whole range of itineraries, from Raja Ampat to Indonesia's 'Forgotten Islands'.

It's definitely a luxury experience and the price reflects that, but other providers offer similar trips through the Komodo Islands on a range of budgets.

My other uncle Gregory Heighes runs Dive Komodo, which is also based out of Labuan Bajo and offers three-day dive trips starting at under $1000.

So if you're craving a tropical holiday full of stunning natural sights, wildlife encounters and culture but don't want to do the same thing as everyone else, it might be time to book a liveaboard.

The writer travelled at her own expense, at a discounted family rate.

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