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This was published 1 year ago

This place in Europe is booming for Aussies, and I think I found out why

Kristine Tarbert
Kristine Tarbert

There is a brilliant blue sky, the sun is shining, the water is cool and crystal clear. But I’ve crumpled in pain, forced to sit down at the edge of the lapping waves.

This was something I was not prepared for when first hitting the stunning coast of Nice, along the French Riviera.

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Nice is booming among Aussie travellers but there is no sand here. Nine/Supplied

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Nice is booming among Aussie travellers, but while we might be used to beautiful beaches, you'll find anything but white stretches of sand here.

As I found out a little too late, the pebbles and rocks along the coast here make the entry and exit of the water a little trickier than first thought.

And yet, despite this brief moment of agony (yes, I'm not exaggerating!) I quickly learned why this destination is so hot right now.

Nice is already France's second-largest tourist hub, attracting over five million visitors annually. And Australian travellers have been steadily climbing in the rankings.

One hotel manager toldme, Aussies were actually the fifth highest group for visitor numbers to the property in 2024 (after the US, UK, Germany, and French domestic travellers).

It is the second most popular spot in France after Paris (according to Booking.com).

But while sipping an Aperol Spritz in the Mediterranean sun definitely sounds like the major drawcard, here are six reasons I thought Nice had plenty more to offer - beyond the stunning coastline.

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Located along the stunning French Riviera. Getty Images/iStockphoto

1. The old-town charm

This coastal city is actually UNESCO-listed after it became a fashionable winter retreat for European aristocracy. You can learn all about Nice's "Belle Époque" heritage (literally means "Beautiful Age") on a guided tour.

Or simply stroll the streets yourself to admire its stunning architecture, seaside promenades, and cultural landmarks that define the glamour of the French Riviera. 

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Duck into the winding streets of Vieux Nice (or "Old Nice") and get lost in the colourful maze of cobblestone lanes.

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Definitely stop and shop at Cours Saleya's famous flower and produce market. Nine/Supplied

The Old Town of Nice is made up of tall tenement houses lined up along narrow and shadowed streets. The pastel-hued buildings host shops that sell Niçoise soaps and Provençal textiles, plus meats and cheeses.

The famous daily market on pedestrian street Cours Saleya offers produce and flowers. It is worth shopping if you can.

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The strawberries were some of the freshest and juiciest I have ever tasted. Plus I scored a nice tote-bag as a souvenir that came in handy to store the rest of my goodies.

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Nice Cathedral is located in the Old Town. Nine/Supplied

This historic heart of the city really is brimming with character. You can stop at a traditional café, or grab a sweet treat from Maison Auer, a vintage chocolatier opposite the Opera House.

The area's lively atmosphere and blend of Italian and French influences make it a must-visit. 

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Though I have never been to Nice before, I was reliably told this grand dame of the Côte d'Azur has certainly had a facelift within the most recent decade.

The town’s grandiose squares have been repaved, frontages repainted, and a new tram system has gone some way to calming the gridlocked traffic. It is no longer being overshadowed by its more well-known and glitzy neighbours Monte Carlo and Cannes.

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Nice is UNESCO-listed after it became a fashionable winter retreat for European aristocracy. Nine/Supplied

2. A haven for the art lovers

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World-renowned artists, such as Yves Klein, Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse and many more, have drawn inspiration from the streets of Nice.

Many of their works are memorialised today in a collection of local museums. And visiting them is easy, as none of them tend to be plagued by the long lines and crowds of major museums in Europe's big cities.

Nestled in the hills of Saint-Paul de Vence near Nice, Fondation Maeght is a world-renowned modern art museum surrounded by a peaceful forest.

Saint-Paul de Vence near Nice, Fondation Maeght

Fondation Maeght is located in Saint-Paul de Vence near Nice. Nine/Supplied

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Established by Marguerite and Aimé Maeght in 1964 it houses paintings, sculptures, collages, ceramics and all forms of modern art, by artists such as Miró, Giacometti, Calder, and other 20th-century icons.

Last year, a major extension was added in celebration of its 60th anniversary. You can also wander the open-air sculpture garden, or enjoy a drink at the on-ground café.

And take a moment to visit the small chapel in the gardens. It is dedicated to the founder's youngest son who very tragically died at 12 from leukaemia.

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This extension was added in 2024 for the 60th anniversary. Supplied

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Meanwhile, back in town the Musee Marc Chagall National is one of Nice's top attractions.

Hosting the largest public collection of Chagall's art, the artist himself actually had a hand in designing this delightful museum, which includes his Biblical Message cycle: 17 large luminous canvases on biblical themes.

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The Chagall museum is one of Nice's top attractions. Supplied

3. Surprise discoveries

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Aside from the rich art history, Nice was full of plenty of other unexpected surprises.

One such discovery was the Le Patio Restaurant & Terrasse at Hôtel La Pérouse.

The hotel itself is actually completely hidden from view, as it is literally carved into the cliffs above the Promenade des Anglais, and surrounded at street level by other buildings.

But once inside, make your way to Le Patio (through a bit of a rabbit warren of hallways, but staff can help!) and you’ll discover a serene garden terrace.

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Le Patio Restaurant & Terrasse at Hôtel La Pérouse is a hidden haven. Nine/Supplied

Guests can dine al fresco beneath olive trees while enjoying a menu that blends contemporary French cuisine with Provençal charm. The setting is ideal for intimate gatherings, leisurely brunches, or a refined evening under the stars.

The five-star boutique hotel offers sweeping views of the Baie des Anges from most of its rooms, as well as the rooftop terraces, plus the property features a secluded pool and Mediterranean gardens.

When (not if) I go back to Nice, it is on my list to actually stay as a guest. Imagine enjoying the incredible view from this rooftop every day!

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The view from the rooftop terrace of Hôtel La Pérouse. Nine/Supplied

4. Beyond the coast

Speaking of surprises, this was undoubtedly a highlight - and simultaneously a low-light as we only got to spend a short amount of time here.

Le Château Saint-Martin & Spa is an upscale seasonal hotel set in a hilltop chateau and it completely took my breath away when we first arrived.

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You'll need to arrange car service or have your own mode of transport to make the 20-minute trek from Nice Côte d'Azur Airport. But it is well worth it.

le Château Saint-Martin & Spa,

Le Château Saint-Martin & Spa is an upscale seasonal hotel. Supplied

Built out of the ruins of a 12th century stronghold, the hotel first opened in 1954 and now hosts guests seasonally from around mid-April to mid-October.

The ruins date back to the time of the Crusade and are still visible on some parts of the estate, including what was the original entrance - the red door seen in the below image.

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It was used as a model for the new entrance when it was redone.

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The 12th century ruins are still visible in some areas. The red door was the original entrance. Nine/Supplied

Within the property you'll find plush rooms with country-chic décor and scenic views, marble bathrooms, free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TVs. Suites have lounges and terraces or you can opt for a secluded 1- to 3-bedroom villas built into the mountainside.

Elsewhere on the property, there is an oak-panelled bar, a fine-dining restaurant with a terrace, an outdoor grill and a posh spa, plus a pool, tennis courts and access to a private beach.

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le Château Saint-Martin & Spa,

Enjoy plush rooms with country-chic décor and scenic views. Supplied

Luckily, you don't have to stay as a guest to get a taste of this stunning property either.

Instead you can settle in for a picnic-style meal at the Château's garden restaurant L'Oliveraie.

Homegrown herbs and ripening vegetables inspire L'Oliveraie's menu, which includes Mediterranean flavours like herb-infused grilled fish and meats, rustic pizzas from our wood-fired oven, teppanyaki plates and zesty salads.

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5. Delicious food

Speaking of food.

The 'Niçoise' cuisine was something new to me and it is all about respecting local products, shaped by its location between sea and mountains, and always accompanied by the region's famous olive oil and aromatic plants.

A local institution since 1927, Acchiardo is a family-run restaurant that has become synonymous with authentic Niçoise cuisine and warm, old-world hospitality.

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Acchiardo is a family-run restaurant that has become synonymous with authentic Niçoise cuisine. Nine/Supplied

Nestled in the Old Town, it's cherished for its hearty regional dishes like pissaladière, daube, and stuffed vegetables, all made from recipes passed down through generations. 

Salade Niçoise was also on the menu. This dish is part of the mythology of Nice. Each neighbourhood, every village, every family has its own version.

At the newly-renovated Anantara hotel you can enjoy delicious food while making the most of the panoramic views at the SEEN by Olivier Rooftop Bar. Open to hotel guests as well as the public the breakfast here was delicious with one of the best hotel buffets I've been able to enjoy.

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Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel

SEEN by Olivier Rooftop Bar at Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel. Supplied

6. It's well connected

We were here to celebrate Virgin Australia's return to long-haul flying via its new partnership with Qatar Airways, who fly direct to Nice.

However, Nice is also extremely well connected to other destinations by rail. In fact, Nice to Paris is less than six hours (which is about the time it took us to get there after a three-hour EasyJet flight delay!)

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Plus the journey offers more than just a transfer – it's a scenic ride through the beauty of France.

Starting with views of azure waters, palm-lined promenades, and Mediterranean harbours, the route then winds through the sun-drenched hills of Provence, with glimpses of lavender fields, olive groves, and vineyard-covered valleys.

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Travel first class on the high-speed SNCF train from Nice to Paris. Nine/Supplied

Further north, the landscape shifts to rolling farmland, wooded hills, and quaint rural towns, offering an everchanging backdrop.

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Travelling first class on the high-speed SNCF train is a delight. Plus there is a new initiative from SNCF for 10 or more passengers travelling together, and includes a host to smooth the way.

Where to stay in Nice

The Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel is a Belle Epoque hotel set a block back from the Promenade des Anglais.

The newly renovated heritage property first built in 1848 offers 151 suites and rooms facing the Mediterranean and Albert 1er gardens.

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Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel

Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel is in a freshly renovated heritage building. Supplied

anantara plaza nice hotel

There are 151 rooms and suites. Supplied

The hotel's central location makes it easy to spend your days exploring the beautiful Place Massena and the world-famous Promenade.

As a guest, you can also organise access to the hotel's partner beach club ''Ruhl Plage''. But there are plenty of public areas available within a few minutes walk from the property.

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Just remember a thick towel (or yoga mat) and slides or sandals for your feet.

Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel

Rooms offer views of the sea and park. Supplied

Best time to visit Nice

Nice is still predominantly a summertime destination, with crowds heaviest – and prices highest – between June and August, according toLonely Planet.

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The best time to travel to Nice is in the shoulder season, which is late May and early September.

There are fewer crowds and more pleasant weather, the sea remains warm for swimming and the city regains a more relaxed, local vibe.

Plus it's more affordable to find conveniently-located accommodation.

The writer travelled as a guest of Virgin Australia, Atout France, and Explore Nice.

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