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This was published 1 year ago

'Charge at least double': Costly mistake to avoid in Rome

John Walsh
John Walsh

OK. You've gotta stick with me on this. I know it might seem like clickbait but I really do have a way to see Rome without the crowds.

35 million people visit Rome every year. Even now hundreds of thousands have gathered in Rome and Vatican City to farewell Pope Francis and celebrate as a new Pope was elected. So it's hard to imagine a time when there aren't hordes of tourists around. 

But there is a time and this is where you have to stick with me. 5am. Before you say anything, keep reading.

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Vatican City, Vatican City State - August 21, 2008: St. Peter's Basilica at sunset from Via della Conciliazione. Vatican City State. Rome, Italy.

Hundreds of thousands of people flocked to Rome and the Vatican to farewell Pope Francis and welcome a new pontiff. Getty

I know - you're on holidays - so why would I want to get up at 5am?

Well, because it's an amazing time to see one of the world's most magical cities at its best. You can always have a siesta later and now that you've read this you'll always wonder if you should've done it.

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For complete transparency this is not an idea I came up with as a so called "travel expert". I have jet lag to blame for this inspired notion. 

A few years ago I was holidaying in Rome with my family and we all woke up around 5am with jet lag from the flight from Australia the day before.

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Going to back to sleep wasn't an option so we decided to head out on an early morning adventure (That's how I sold it to my kids - an adventure).

People and a Restaurant in an Alley of Trastevere, old town of Rome, Italy. Rome, Italys capital, is a sprawling, cosmopolitan city with nearly 3,000 years of globally influential art, architecture and culture on display. Trastevere is one of Rome's most colorful areas. It's known for traditional and innovative trattorias, craft beer pubs and artisan shops.

Stepping outside the hotel was like stepping into an entirely different place. Getty

Stepping outside the hotel was like stepping into an entirely different place from the one we arrived at yesterday. It was so quiet, the streets were so empty. It was like someone had opened up Rome just for us.

There were a few shift workers, the odd jogger, some delivery vans and the sound of metal shutters being opened up at bakeries and cafes. The city was just starting to come to life and we were there to witness it.

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It was like someone had opened up Rome just for us.

This was not the Rome of the tourists, this was the Rome of the locals and it was an amazing peek behind the curtain.

We were staying in a hotel on Via Vittoria so the first big ticket attraction we came across was the Spanish Steps. All to ourselves. It makes a great photo all alone on one of the city's most popular tourist spots. It will really make you stand out from the crowd - or in this case no crowd.

Get the Spanish Steps all to yourself early in the morning. Getty Images/iStockphoto

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It's also a great time of the day to stroll down the Via Condotti which starts at the foot of the Spanish Steps. This is Rome's most famous shopping street, wall-to-wall designer boutiques.

Why is this time of the day so great? Because all the stores are closed which will give you peace of mind if you or your partner are an undisciplined shopper. 

The Trevi Fountain is only 10 minutes from here and again it's strange, in a good way, to see this without the crowds. When we were there the only activity was two cleaners actually in the fountain - something you don't see at any other time of the day.

You can toss a coin over your head for luck and be guaranteed it hits the water, not the head of an American tourist.

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Crowds flock to the Trevi fountain during the day. Getty

What you'll see on your walk will depend on what part of the city you are in and how long you want to stroll around for, but I suggest at least an hour at that time of day.

Sunrise in Rome in summer is around 5:45am-6am and closer to 7am in autumn. I haven't been there myself but I'm told the best spots for sunrise are just outside the city: Giardino degli Aranci and Gianicolo (or Janculum Hill). In the city itself Villa Borghese Gardens open at sunrise and are a good option. Only about a 12-minute walk from the Spanish Steps.

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Last tip. When you're ready for the coffee and pastry you've earned from the walk make sure you have them at the counter like the locals. Cafes will charge at least double if you sit at a table and get served. True. That's not clickbait.

John Walsh was Executive Producer of the TV travel series Getaway from 1999-2024.

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