'A whirlwind visit to Hobart has left me longing to return'
I still remember the first time I flew on a plane, 30 years ago with my family from Sydney to Hobart for a short getaway when I was 10.
My younger sister and I gasped with excitement as the plane took off – so loud that the other passengers nearby laughed – and I vividly recall disembarking into the cool Tasmanian air as our road trip through the apple aisle began.
Three decades later, with many more flights under my belt since then, I had a similar thrilling feeling when I recently flew to Hobart to cover the final leg of Queen Mary's state visit to Australia in late March.
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The harbourfront in Hobart, the capital of Tasmania. Supplied
Queen Mary and her husband King Frederik X of Denmark were in Hobart as the couple wrapped up their historic six-day visit to Australia, their first as King and Queen.
Their busy day in the Tasmanian capital was also the first time they had been there, in an official capacity, since 2005 just months after the fairy tale royal wedding in Copenhagen.
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It was a big deal. And, as expected, it was an emotional day for Mary who later said of being there: "There really isn't a more special place to end what has been a unique, rewarding, moving, exciting, curious tour – state visit – to Australia from Denmark".
As part of the official accredited media pack, I was able to follow the Danish royal couple for their full day in Hobart which included a morning on the water, lunch at one of Tasmania's most-acclaimed restaurants and a reception inside what is, arguably, the city's most beautiful building.
Queen Mary and King Frederik of Denmark chose Hobart for the final stop on their state visit to Australia in March, meeting crowds in Hunter Street along the harbourfront. Getty
The experience reminded me just how much I love Tasmania and how much I am desperate to return for a longer stay.
Getting there
I flew Jetstar from Sydney to Hobart return and the so-called 'budget carrier' felt fitting for my whirlwind visit covering the royal tour.
Queen Mary, when she was Crown Princess, flew Jetstar to Hobart with her two children for a private family holiday in 2008. The airline later sought approval from the Danish embassy to name one of its aircraft 'Princess Mary'.
And again, in 2011 for another private holiday, Mary and her children flew Jetstar.
I caught the 6am flight from Sydney to Hobart to cover Queen Mary's visit to Tasmania in March. Supplied
My experience with Jetstar was stress-free and smooth, unlike some of my other media colleagues who had major dramas with a different airline.
Their flight, from another capital city, was delayed at departure and then they were stuck on the tarmac forcing them to miss the first two royal engagements.
Thankfully, I had no such worries with Jetstar.
Flying Jetstar from Hobart to Sydney was quick, easy and affordable. Supplied
I was on the first flight out from Sydney on a Thursday morning (0600, JQ719) and checked in at the airport, choosing to take carry-on baggage only. As of now, the earliest Sydney departure is at 0645.
The airline offers several direct flights to Hobart throughout the day from various Australian capital cities, including Sydney and Melbourne.
Once on board the Airbus A321 and comfortable in my window seat (6A) the flight took off on time and the cabin crew were quick in serving beverages and light meals (for a small fee).
I had plenty of room and the flight took one hour and 50 minutes, arriving on time, just before 8am, allowing me to get into the city – a short drive away – for my first event of the day.
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Such was the ease of flying Jetstar to Hobart, I chose the airline again to cover Prince Harry and Meghan's visit to Melbourne in April. Supplied
My 0835 flight home the next day was equally problem-free.
But my one tip for those wanting to take carry-on bags only: make sure you know how much they weigh.
Under the starter fare, the carry-on allowance is two items with a combined weight of seven kilograms.
Passengers with carry-on bags on board my flight back to Sydney were being thoroughly checked and all bags weighed at the gate. Some were stung with on the spot $85 excess baggage fees.
Prior to flying, additional allowance can be purchased if needed.
Where to stay
I stayed at Rydges Hobart and my only regret is that I had to return to Sydney after just one night, such is the nature of covering a quick royal visit.
As someone who loves heritage charm and history, I was immediately captivated by the hotel when I arrived to check-in early.
The Rydges Hobart, located in North Hobart and close to most of the city's main attractions. Supplied
Walking inside from the cool morning air, the lit fireplaces were a welcome comfort as I had a coffee before embarking on the day ahead.
The main building is historically-listed and was once home to what was then known as The Blind, Deaf and Dumb Institution, which opened a school on the site in 1901.
Located in North Hobart, the 63-room boutique hotel perfectly combines heritage styling with contemporary features.
A king room inside the Rydges Hobart, located just two kilometres from the CBD. Supplied
Once inside it felt like stepping back into a bygone era of Edwardian and Federation elegance and charm: high ceilings, floorboards, wide corridors, period features and a quiet luxury that comes from those grand country residences.
Only this was located just two kilometres from the CBD, overlooking North Hobart Oval with Mount Wellington close by.
Some of the city's most popular attractions are nearby including Salamanca Markets, the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), and the University of Tasmania.
1898 Bar & Dining offers a range of menu items sourced using local ingredients. Supplied
I had time to kill before my first event of the day at the harbour so I decided to walk instead of using public transport. It was an easy 30-minute stroll of just over two kilometres (all downhill) along Argyle Street to get from the hotel to Constitution Dock.
Along the way I passed antique stores, bakeries and cafes and vintage clothing stores before arriving at the harbour feeling refreshed.
I didn't get back to the hotel until after 6pm, just in time for dinner at the hotel's in-house restaurant 1898 Bar & Dining.
The linguine with prawns and carbonara sauce at 1898 Bar & Dining. Supplied
Located in the main building and offering views of the city's skyline and harbour, the restaurant had ample choices using local and seasonal produce. Starving, I chose the linguine with prawns and carbonara sauce, which was absolutely delicious and hit the spot after being too busy to eat lunch earlier.
The dining room was atmospheric with the fireplace offering warmth and the dim lighting adding to the ambience. Breakfast the next morning was served there, the sunlight streaming in through the large windows.
My room was spacious and, much like the dining room, offered sweeping views of the city.
I didn't know this at the time but Rydges rooms feature 'dream beds' promoting a perfect night's sleep. I had one of the deepest sleeps in a long time and have been thinking about that bed, and the hotel in general, far too often since!
My room's Wi-Fi was fast and the desk large, allowing me to work away on my laptop long after the royal tour had ended for the day.
The staff, from those at reception to the dining room, were more than helpful.
The view from one of the rooms at the Rydges Hobart. Supplied
What to see
Being in Hobart for the royal visit, I was limited to what was on the King and Queen's agenda for the day.
A must-do experience is getting out onto the water. My boat ride from the Elizabeth Street Pier followed the royal couple's out to the picturesque Alum Cliffs Marine Reserve to view part of a giant kelp forest. Along the way, the boat passed Taroona High School where Mary was a former student.
King Frederik and Queen Mary took a two-hour boat ride starting at Hobart's harbour, taking in the Alum Cliffs Marine Reserve nearby. The Danish Royal House
Hobart's waterfront has many restaurants, pubs and other eateries and is where the King and Queen met the public before returning to Denmark. During private holidays to Hobart, Mary is often spotted shopping with her family at the Salamanca Markets nearby.
For lunch, the royal party was hosted at The Agrarian Kitchen, in New Norfolk, about a 40-minute drive from the city.
More than 90 per cent of the food served at the award-winning venue, located on the grounds of the old mental asylum, is sourced on site from its kitchen garden, which features seasonal fruit and vegetables, a greenhouse, nursery, orchards and citrus grove.
Queen Mary and King Frederik of Denmark had a private lunch at The Agrarian Kitchen in New Norfolk, Tasmania, on the final day of their state visit to Australia. Natalie Oliveri
Sadly for us in the media pack, we didn't have time to eat but I hope to return there one day.
Another place that left me in awe was Government House, arguably the most beautiful building in the city.
It is regarded as one of the best vice-regal residences in the Commonwealth and rumoured to be one of the late Queen Elizabeth II's favourites – and it was a fitting location for the state reception which officially ended the royal visit and Mary's return to Hobart the 'homecoming queen'.
Inside Government House in Hobart, which hosts visiting royalty among other distinguished guests, and is open for public tours. Natalie Oliveri
A number of tours are available to the public taking in the grand state rooms, kitchen, ballroom and expansive gardens.
While I am firmly back in Sydney, my heart is definitely still in Hobart.
And I can see why Queen Mary was nearly in tears about having to return to Europe.
This writer travelled as a guest of Rydges Hobart and Jetstar.
