Anatomy of a cult buy: The real reason we’re all so obsessed with $60 Uniqlo barrel pants and $69 Lioness stripe tops right now

Sabbi oversized tees, All For Mimi tanks, the House of Sunny Hockney dress, even American Apparel disco pants; the list of ‘cult’ fashion buys we’ve all been convinced we needed at one point or another is seemingly endless.

Right now, Australian shoppers are racing out to purchase $59.90 Uniqlo barrel pants and the $69 Lioness stripe tops while cult items of days gone by (White Fox hoodies, platform Uggs) are still lingering in many of their wardrobes.

It seems counter-intuitive to be spending our hard-earned cash on new tops or shoes every few months in the midst of a cost-of-living crisis, but many of us simply can’t resist the siren song of a new viral piece.

So, what makes these so-called cult buys so popular, and why do new ‘must have’ fashion items seem to be popping up faster than ever?

We sat down with a personal stylist, a fashion academic, and a fashion marketing strategist to uncover the truth and figure out if cult buys are really worth the hype.

Have you got a story? Contact reporter Maddison Skipper: mskipper@nine.com.au

Read more

The makeup staple that’s taking a back seat on celebrities’ faces

What makes a ‘cult buy’?

Once upon a time, cult items were aspirational pieces shoppers had to save up to afford; think a Prada bag, or a pair of Louboutin So Kates.

Today, it’s all about virality, accessibility and affordability.

“We see things constantly on TikTok, Instagram, so that visibility really drives the product to that viral status,” personal stylist Tara Pokarier told nine.com.au.

“It feels new enough to be exciting, but wearable enough that people can instantly imagine it fitting into their wardrobe.

“And the affordability removes a lot of the risk associated with trying a new trend.”

Many cult buys also build upon existing trends, like the Uniqlo barrel pants, which took the barrel jean trend and provided an even comfier alternative.

Rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne, senior lecturer of Fashion Marketing and Enterprise at Torrens University Australia, said ‘cult’ has become almost synonymous with ‘viral’ in today’s fashion landscape.

“Once a product has picked up some heat, content creators that jump on that and create videos trying on this viral item,” she told nine.com.au.

That generates what’s known as ‘social proof’, a psychological and social phenomenon where people copy what they see others doing because they assume it to be correct.

Carla Newton, senior strategist and designer at Culture Digital Agency, told nine.com.au: “Seeing a real person wear something signals it’s already been vetted as fashionable and the perceived risk of getting it ‘wrong’ disappears.”

Then it’s as simple as tapping the ‘shop now’ button or an affiliate link on TikTok, Instagram or YouTube, adding the product to your cart, and checking out.

The rise of fast fashion has also forced style trend cycles to speed up rapidly, to the point where there’s something new coming out seemingly every day – and everyone wants to have it.

Can brands manufacture cult status?

While clever marketing can certainly help a product take off, brands can’t really force something to go viral or achieve cult status.

“There’s an ineffable element that no campaign can guarantee,” Newton said.

“It’s also very hard to recreate virality, so even if you set up the conditions deliberately you can never be sure it will work.”

That’s partly because shoppers crave authenticity.

It’s why we’re more likely to buy something recommended to us by a friend, colleague, or a social media personality we like and trust, over something advertised directly by a brand.

Especially if that something is a cute, comfy top priced at just $69.

Read more

The unpleasant detail we all forgot as we embraced ballet flats again

“What’s fun about products that go viral is that there still has to be a human component,” Lamarche-Beauchesne told nine.com.au.

“It has to resonate with people in a specific way, and there has to be a reason behind it. And you just have to be at that right moment.”

Of course, brands still work hard behind the scenes trying to make their product the next cult hit.

They spend millions on celebrity and influencer marketing because people like Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner, and Alix Earle are who many consumers look to for fashion inspiration.

“The fees may be substantial, but a single well-placed post from the right person can sell out a product in minutes,” Newton said.

Pokarier revealed many brands also have programs that help them predict fashion trends years in advance, as well as researchers and buyers who pore over data to figure out what will most appeal to shoppers at any given moment.

Artificial intelligence is even starting to transform trend forecasting and product development.

“We are getting closer and closer to culture being engineered by tech, and I think engineering virality is something that’s definitely going to happen,” Lamarche-Beauchesne said.

Are cult buys worth the hype?

It’s the ultimate question, and the one with the most frustrating answer: it depends on you.

“As a stylist, one of the biggest misconceptions I see is people assuming that if something is selling out or constantly appearing on social media, it’s going to automatically work for them,” Pokarier said.

When you’re exposed to the same item over and over, it’s easy to start to perceive it as desirable and develop a bit of FOMO without stopping to consider if it will actually work in your wardrobe.

That’s why Pokarier urges Aussies to pause before they purchase a cult piece.

Read more

The real answer to the question you Google every time you buy new clothes

Consider if the piece is within your budget, how it would fit into your existing wardrobe, what you could style it with, and if it’s practical for your lifestyle.

If the answer to any of those questions is ‘no’, that particular cult buy might not be worth the hype for you.

“The items that deserve cult status are the ones that continue earning their place in your wardrobe,” she said.

“Not just because everyone else is wearing it, but because it genuinely makes getting dressed easier.”