‘Behind a hill was the most incredible hotel room I’ve ever stayed in’
“We’ve had elephants on the roof before,” manager Marco casually remarked as he led us down the path to our villa.
You’d expect that to be a major problem at most hotels – a large, wild mammal wandering the rooftop, but not here.
A villa at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, deep in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa. Sabi Sabi
In fact, they’re practically encouraged.
I’ve stayed at plenty of hotels around the world, both cheap and fancy and the word “unique” gets bandied around a lot.
But Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, deep in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa, is like nothing I’ve ever seen.
To start, it’s completely unfenced, meaning critters big and small can get in, including the curious marauding elephants.
The villas are built into the ground, with grass on the roof. Sarah Swain
There are 12 villas at the lodge plus a restaurant, a bar and a lobby. All are built into the earth, meaning animals can also wander up top.
Imagine a series of very lavish houses for Hobbits (or Teletubbies) and you’ll get the idea.
Sarah’s villa at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge which had walls made of mud. Sarah Swain
Multiple windows in the ceiling allowed us to peer at what creatures might be paying us a visit. I’m a bit disappointed to say, but nobody came to call, though we did hear hippos honking all night.
Now, with non-human guests exploring the area, there’s a strict rule never to wander unescorted at night.
Never have I phoned reception to send a guide to come and walk me to dinner. But rules are rules.
The guest areas at Sabi Sabi Earth lodge include a water feature. Sabi Sabi
The surprises at the lodge were not all outdoors.
I shrieked when I opened a beautiful wooden console in the corner of my room. It was the lodge mini bar, albeit, not so mini.
It was stacked with bottles of wine, gin, local brews, cans of fizz and even all the elements to make cocktails, like lemon slices, tabasco and ice.
The all-included mini bar at Earth Lodge. Sarah Swain
I know you’re wondering about the price and, yes, it is more than my monthly mortgage per night, but it’s all-inclusive, so...
As for the lodge service, well, let me tell you.
My laundry was returned wrapped in tissue paper, cosy little note cards and chocolates were left for us constantly and even the loo roll was folded neatly... and secured with a piece of long grass.
Some sweet worker also filled the bath while we were at dinner and adorned the bathroom with candles and rose petals for our return.
They even turned on the electric blanket to make the bed perfectly toasty. I think they would have come and tucked us in if we’d have asked.
I’d honestly need a whole separate story to talk about the five meals a day (pre-game drive breakfast, second breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner).
Now, I’m not a swimmer, but did I immediately don my cossie and edge myself into our private plunge pool overlooking the bush? I certainly did.
The private pool at Sarah’s Earth Lodge safari villa. Sarah Swain
We were not just staying at Sabi Sabi for the room, or the pool or food – though one carrot dish was described by my husband as “life changing”.
The private reserve is renowned as one of the prime places in South Africa for a Big Five safari. The wildlife we saw was worthy of a David Attenborough doco.
We were close enough to hear a young leopard eat its supper, as a hyena lingered below the tree.
I tried very hard to get a good photo of a grazing albino zebra, thought to be perhaps the only one in Africa.
We gasped as a curious blue-eyed baby leopard fell out of a bush while its mum napped nearby.
A hyena stalks a leopard; a rare albino zebra. Sarah Swain
We also witnessed a bunch of rare African painted dogs gambolling, circled by vultures keen to swoop on any leftover kills.
“You could come into Africa a hundred times and to see those guys, you’d be lucky,” our guide, Albert told us.
All of this unfolded on the twice daily game drives from Earth Lodge and sister property, the equally lavish, but more family-friendly Bush Lodge, where we also stayed.
Those drives through the wilds with our expert guide and tracker now seem like a fever dream.
An elephant getting friendly at Sabi Sand. Sarah Swain
I mean being close enough to see and smell a lion take a fresh dump beside the vehicle wasn’t ideal, but you can’t have it all.
While I’ve been on multiple safaris, I actually had to get my tissues out when our three-day visit to Sabi Sabi ended.
Heading back to the airport with a guide who remarked the ostrich wandering by had come to “say goodbye”, finished me off as I know I’ll probably never stay anywhere as epic again.
A lion does the unthinkable by our safari truck, as our tracker Scelo holds his nose. Sarah Swain
Best time to travel to Africa
This depends on where exactly you are going, but usually the dry season, from May to October, is one of the best times to travel to Africa.
Animals gather around water and can be easier to spot.
The wet season, from November to April, is more lush and warmer, but animals can be harder to see.
The shoulder season around May, September and October can be quieter for visitors and offers decent wildlife viewing opportunities.
The writer stayed as a guest of Sabi Sabi but paid for their own flights and gratuities.
