Is it worth doing a stopover in Doha? There are a few things to consider

I'm standing at the edge of the plaza square that marks the beginning of the souq market in Doha. It's the end of a steaming hot day, and suddenly, what seemed like a quiet and deserted city comes alive.

The sunset casts a golden glow over the terracotta landscape, as people crowd around market stalls selling aromatic Arabian coffee.

Finally, I think I'm getting a taste of local life in Qatar.

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Qatar, especially Doha, is becoming a popular stopover option for Aussies heading to Europe, offering an alternative to the likes of Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

Tourism bosses have stepped up efforts, offering free stopover deals and affordable hotel stays to attract more Aussies.

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Qatar greeted almost 5.1 million tourists in 2024, according to United Nations World Tourism Organisation's global tourism statistics, more than Norway, Malta, Mauritius, and Jamaica.

That number also represents a rise of 138 per cent since 2019 – making it the world's fastest-growing holiday destination.

The growth for Aussie travellers has been driven largely by Qatar Airways' stronger presence here, boosted this year by the launch of its partnership with Virgin Australia.

And there was plenty on offer for visitors to experience, as we discovered on a three-night stopover earlier this year.

Though is it enough to rival the heavyweights of Singapore and Dubai? The jury is still out.

Souq Waqif 

First, though, back to the bustling evening streets of the Souq Waqif, a traditional market where you can wander through spice-scented alleys, browse handcrafted wares, and sip Arabic coffee in charming courtyards.

It's a must-visit for an authentic taste of Qatari culture and hospitality, and was definitely one of the highlights during our visit.

Shay AlShomous

For an actual taste of Qatari food (which it turns out was rather difficult to find, given the multicultural influences dominating the vast majority of the local food scene) Shay AlShomous is where you need to go.

Owner Shams AlQassabi, also known as AlShomous, is a famous local woman who is considered to be the first to not only create her own spice mixes and food concepts, but was also the first to open and run a business in the Souq Waqif - formerly a space monopolised by men.

One of the very few 'authentic' Qatar restaurants, it is best frequented for breakfast or brunch - just come with a large appetite!

The entrepreneur has received a host of awards, and the walls of her restaurant are adorned with hundreds of photos of visitors - plenty of them famous.

Qatar's King, or Emir, and (somewhat surprisingly) the likes of David Beckham, have even frequented her shop.

Expect a lot of pastry and egg. But while we were served way too much food to finish, what I did try was delicious and unlike anything I've had before.

Best things to do in Doha

Desert dunes and inland sea experience

Once you've explored some of the city, it's time to head a bit further out and take in the vastness of the desert that surrounds Doha.

Honestly, even if you only have one day in Doha (or arrive on an early morning flight with a long layover, this is the one thing to do.

The private tour with Discover Qatar runs twice a day, one time in the early morning, and one time in the evening to avoid the hottest parts of the day. Departing at 4:30am was ideal to catch the sunrise as we made our way out of the city.

After a quick pit stop to prepare the air-conditioned, private 4WDs we hit the dunes and honestly all started giggling from that moment on.

If you've never driven on sand before, you might not know what to expect, but it's an exhilarating way to take in the incredible landscape of Khor Al Adaid.

There was the occasional rollercoaster moment, and sand spray up the side of the car. Plus some incredibly steep descents that will have you holding onto the ceiling of the car.

Oh... and careful not to fall for the 'camel trick'. We won't say any more!

Eventually, the dramatic sand dunes give way to a flat expanse around the inland sea, a UNESCO-recognised natural wonder where desert dunes dramatically meet the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf.

It's actually one of only two places in the world where this happens (the other being Namibia) and is accessible only by 4x4.

You can head in early in the morning and enjoy a splash alongside other visitors, many of whom are fishing.

If you do the evening tour, there is also an option to enjoy a sunset picnic.

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National Museum of Qatar

Hidden inside this incredible building, designed to resemble a desert rose, is the National Museum of Qatar.

Designed by Jean Nouvel, the museum tells the story of the country through immersive exhibits and interactive technology. It's a captivating journey through Qatar's natural history, heritage, and rapid modernisation. 

That rapid modernisation was what stood out to me the most. In one exhibit they used light to showcase the spread of Doha between 1970 and the 2000s.

Qatar transformed from a poor, pearl-diving nation to a global economic hub largely due to the discovery and export of oil and natural gas. This shift led to a massive increase in population and a dramatic transformation of its infrastructure.

We could only explore half the museum during our visit as the remaining exhibits are under reservation until Mid-2026.

Stroll through Mina Port

Mina Port - which is the main cruise ship terminal - was an unexpected delight, despite the fact we only made a brief stop here in the middle of the day, meaning the heat was turned up and the storefronts and cafes were mostly closed until later in the evening.

You'll still be charmed by its colourful buildings, and enjoy a great photo op against the backdrop of traditional dhow boats. 

Plus, you can visit one of the most beautiful fish markets I've ever seen.

Where to stay in Doha

Depending on what tone you're setting for your visit there are a few options to choose from.

If you want to get that feel for local life, there are a few boutique hotels located right within the souq market.

There are only eight in total. The oldest one of which only has two rooms and is right in the middle of the action; understandably, it is booked out months in advance.

For something a little more hip and modern head to The Ned Doha. This chic luxury hotel offers views of the Gulf. The building once housed the Ministry of Interior and is located next to the official offices of the Sheiq, but still walking distance to the souq (during cooler months).

Otherwise if you want the full resort experience you can check into Intercontinental Doha Beach & Spa.

Nestled along the longest private beach in the city, the hotel offers a seaside escape with sweeping views of the Arabian Gulf.

Things to consider

So is Doha ready to compete with some of the other 'stopover' heavyweights? The short answer is yes. But there are a few things to consider.

The country has made leaps and bounds in terms of infrastructure and offerings for tourists in the last few decades. And of course, Hamad Airport is considered one of, if not the 'best' in the world.

Add to that a bevy of world-class museums, hotels and restaurants, it has helped many people overlook the sweltering temperatures and questionable human rights record.

But one of the most commonly Googled questions still remains - Is it safe to travel to Doha? (Of course, unrest in the region throughout the year has added to those concerns).

Personally there were no times I felt unsafe. Qatar is generally known to be one of the safest countries in the world with relatively low crime rates.

It is an incredibly multicultural place. Of the total (but small) population in Qatar of around 3 million, only 10 per cent are actually Qatari.

The other 90 per cent are expats, with people from India making up the biggest group (nearly 25 per cent).

What to wear in Doha as a woman?

For women in particular, there are still cultural considerations to be aware of, especially in public places.

Qatar is a conservative Muslim country, so modesty is appreciated. Sometimes it is even demanded (as happened to one of my travelling companions within an actual resort setting) which is something that may put many people off.

While there's no formal dress code for tourists, covering shoulders and knees is recommended, especially when visiting markets, museums or religious sites. 

Can you drink alcohol in Doha?

Aussies might love a beer by the beach, but only certain beach clubs will serve alcohol to tourists. Most places are dry. Even many hotels and resorts.

Whether this is a downside really depends what you want in a holiday.

New beach clubs are opening to try and attract tourists and downplay the alcohol restrictions, but these are likely to be more enticing for British travellers for example.

Aussies aren't likely going to visit Doha to go to a beach club.

Best time to visit Doha

The winter period runs from November to February and one of the best times to explore Qatar. It's the ideal period for outdoor adventures, with average temperatures ranging from 15°C to 20°C.

If you don't mind a bit of warm weather then you can visit anytime from early April to early May and from late October to late November. For fewer people but still comfortable weather, the best time to go is September and October. The temperatures are between 25 and 35°C.

Summers in Qatar are hot. From June to August, temperature highs are around 42-43°C.

Do I need a visa if I have a stopover in Doha?

Travellers can enter Qatar without a visa for stays of up to 90 days, making it easy to take in some sights if you have a stopover.

The writer travelled as a guest of Virgin Australia and Discover Qatar.

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