The Dutch city that has the best parts of Amsterdam, minus the crowds
When I was planning my extended holiday through Europe, it seemed a given that Amsterdam would be on the itinerary.
It's up there with Rome, Paris, and the Greek Islands as must-see holiday spots.
But the city's reputation as a party destination - particularly for backpackers and bucks' weekends - can be a bit of a deterrent.
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Utrecht is a great little city. Getty
Instead, I headed to Utretcht, a smaller Dutch city that's less than an hour's train ride from Amsterdam, for a similar but much more laid-back holiday.
It still has the canals, the medieval city centre, the bikes, the gabled houses, and the stroopwafels. But has far fewer crowds, and a much more 'authentic' Dutch feel.
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Utrecht (pronounced yoo-trekt) has just been named one of Lonely Planet's Best in Travel destinations for 2026, and is highlighted as a great spot for a cultured city break.
The city of just 400,000 is bustling and lively, but never feels cramped or overwhelming.
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The canal is the charming heart of the city. Getty
The city centre is lined with two-tiered canals, with cobblestone streets and bridges on top, and tree-lined paths leading to bars and boutiques down below.
"You've got a compact medieval centre, gabled houses that belong in a Vermeer painting and a bounty of bookshops, restaurants and museums to dig into," Lonely Planet experts said.
Plus, it's just 25 minutes from Amsterdam by train.
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Rent a bike and explore how the locals do. Supplied
Things to do in Utrecht
Utrecht is an ideal spot for anyone looking for a low-key yet still urban holiday.
Start out just by strolling around the Oudegracht (Old Canal), in the heart of Utrecht. The canal is lined with historic buildings, cafés, and unique 'wharf cellars' along the water, and a great way to feel out the charm of the city.
Then, climb the 112-metre-tall Dom Tower, the tallest church tower in the Netherlands, for a great view of the city. Find the hidden cloister garden at the Pandhof Domkerk for a quiet moment or maybe a picnic.
Take a break in the walled garden near the Dom. Getty Images/iStockphoto
An absolute must-do is to rent a bike and head out to the countryside surrounding the city.
Head toward Fort Rhijnauwen, a historic building surrounded by nature trails and canals. Refuel with a big stack of pancakes at Teahouse Rhijnauwen before you cycle home.
Eat pancakes in the sun. teahouse rhijnauwen
What to eat in Utrecht
The food is also a great novelty in the Netherlands. Some must-try spots include:
- De Ontdekking for a cosy coffee or tea and pastries.
- Mr. Smakers for the best burgers in the city.
- Broodje Ben for sandwiches on the go.
- Vredenburg Square markets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Don't miss the stroopwafels, and the oliebol (donut balls) if you're there during Christmas.
- Frietwinkel for the best triple-fried hot chips you've ever eaten.
- Café Marktzicht for sunset drinks.
The writer travelled at their own expense.
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