‘I thought I’d never return to this Asian city - until a travel expert changed my mind’

Back in early 2022, I visited Cambodia as part of an extended trip around Asia, and after a few days in Phnom Penh, I was certain I’d never go back there.

Unlike other Asian cities, I found it to be a pretty unimpressive place, which wasn’t overly welcoming to tourists. But a travel expert has recently changed my mind.

Pippa O’Keefe, luxury travel advisor at ASMALLWORLD, just returned from a trip to Cambodia’s capital city, and wants to shout from the rooftops about how great it has become.

Phnom Penh has undergone a transformation in the last few years, firmly establishing it as a top-tier Asian city, almost on par with the likes of Bangkok and Singapore.

I told her I had less than favourable memories of the city, and she agreed that until very recently, it was really only worth a stopover on the way to Angkor Wat or Cambodia’s islands.

“Phnom Penh was my least favourite city until my visit earlier this year,” Pippa told nine.com.au.

Read more

The breathtaking tourist spot most visitors to Asia completely miss

But following a two-billion-dollar airport revamp, an investment in the city’s infrastructure, and the opening of luxury hotels and restaurants, she was shocked by the change.

“For a traveller who enjoys place-specific culture, good hotels, and a strong sense of atmosphere, it’s exactly the kind of destination that becomes memorable once you stay long enough to look beyond the surface,” she said.

What’s cool, Pippa added, is that the city’s hotels and restaurants are embracing local culture, rather than just relying on the modern decor and architecture you might see in other Asian capital cities.

“The best hotels are leaning into Khmer design and local art rather than copying Singapore or Dubai, so clients get the comfort they expect without losing the sense of place they came for,” she said.

Techo International Airport (KTI) opened last year, which Pippa said is “seriously impressive” and in line with Singapore’s Changi Airport. It also helped inspire a wave of change throughout the city.

“Everything following it keeps up to the same standard: the hotels, the dining, the bars. You can now build an entire luxury trip around Phnom Penh rather than spending the night as a stopover, which wasn’t the case just a few years ago.”

Things to do in Phnom Penh

Pippa shared some of her favourite parts of the city with us, which every traveller should add to their list, alongside the typical tourist attractions in Phnom Penh.

Sisowath Quay walking street, on weekend evenings. “There is a great local atmosphere, arrive just before sunset so you catch the transition from riverside stroll to food stalls, performances, and the evening crowd.”

A food tour, particularly one that offers off-the-beaten-path experiences. “Weave through outer neighbourhoods and hidden local markets, hopping between plastic-stool barbecue joints, family-run noodle shacks and dessert stands where you will not see another tourist.

“This is where you try smoky grilled beef skewers, rice porridge laced with offal, or coconut sweets made to grandma’s recipe, all with the kind of storytelling you only get from someone who grew up here.”

Dinner at Pi Sa in the Old Market district. “Set among the stalls of the local market, it feels plugged into the city’s daily rhythm while serving plates that would be at home in any capital’s dining scene.”

Where to stay in Phnom Penh

Pippa said first-timers should look for accommodation in Daun Penh, the historic and commercial heart of Phnom Penh and where the iconic Raffles hotel is.

Here, you can walk to the main attractions like the palace, riverfront, museums, and some of the city’s classic landmarks, as well as markets and many restaurants and bars - including the famous Sky Bar at the Rosewood.