Hotel review: Spicers Guesthouse Hunter Valley, a secret dining Mecca with an Instagram-worthy pool

It's not often you'll hear me gushing about a hotel restaurant, and truth be told some get it so horribly wrong.

But days – even weeks – after checking out of Spicers' newest and ninth property in the heart of the Hunter Valley, Spicers Guesthouse, I find myself bleating to friends ad nauseam about how exquisite the menu is.

And that wine list, well…

But first things first. The schmick retreat in the former historic Peppers site underwent an 18-month refurbishment before reopening under the Spicers banner.

The group injected $30 million into radically lifting the design, building state-of-the-art conference facilities, and carefully reimagining the property's food identity in a region so synonymous with good food and wine.

Multi-hatted executive chef Cameron Matthews was tapped for the task, executing his vision for Eremo Restaurant (Italian for 'greedy', we're told) an upmarket diner that unashamedly embraces Nonna's favourites.

And we're hardly surprised to learn the restaurant and bar team hail from some of Australia's most acclaimed diners, including Dunkeld's two-hatted Royal Mail in regional Victoria.

Location

Nestled amongst lush Hunter bushland in popular Pokolbin and flanked by wineries and tasting rooms – Oakdale to their left, Pukara Estate to their right – the address really can't be beat. The retreat also offers guest parking and free transfers between both of their Hunter Valley properties, in case you're staying two nights and want to dine at the neighbouring Spicers Vineyards Estate.

The hotel

Originally built in 1984, it lays claim to being the very first hotel in the area, and thankfully Spicers Guesthouse has retained its historic charm in the overhaul.

With just 45-rooms over five room types, the property is decidedly boutique, ranging from humble queen rooms to a sprawling four-bedroom cottage.

The site's former pool area has been transformed into a spunky function space, and a jaw-dropping new heated infinity pool has moved in down the back, primed for an Instagram invasion.

The communal guest spaces in the main building stylishly blend old and new, with gorgeous exposed limestone blocks, grand fireplaces and smouldering palettes lifted by sandy-hued furnishings and plush armchairs and sofas.

The room

In contrast to the cosy muted tones of the communal areas, guest rooms are bone-white and supremely modern, fitted with swish new room tech – a godsend to any serial hotel guest. We're staying upstairs in one of the Valley Wing rooms, a short stroll from the main residence, but sadly we're not treated to any of the Hunter's famous views.

As part of the hotel's commitment to sustainability, they've ditched plastic water bottles for glass bedside vessels, which you can fill up with still or sparkling from the main building at your leisure – a touch that we of the Sodastream-owning ilk very much approve of.

As well as a mini bar and stash of edible goodies, the room features complimentary tea, coffee bags, and bickies. It's a simple set-up, but bathrooms are ultra-modern and the signature Spicers beds are comfy.

Drinking and dining

It seems fitting, given the emphasis on the property's culinary offerings, that the bar and dining room enjoy the best views in the estate. Almost ceiling-to-floor windows and French doors frame verdant hills, swaying gums, quaint ponds and a charming outdoor fire-pit that we imagine coupled-up guests would make good use of during the chillier months.

And that's not all that's just beyond the glass panes. The staff already have names for the local 'roos who frequent this grassy patch, we're told while sipping negronis at the bar. There's Downward Dog, Rufus, Jack – or was it Joe? We manage to spot one in the distance just before the sun disappears.

In the dining room, stark white walls are softened by Champagne curtains and wooden bistro-style dining sets. The space oozes European elegance, particularly the private dining room housed in a striking atrium-like pitched-roof wing, towered over by an impressive back-lit wine wall and sculptural feature lighting display.

The wine list is astounding, with around 35 by the glass alone thanks to a smart Coravin and WineEmotion wine system – essentially tech that preserves bottles for longer, resealing them air-tight.

We opt for the chef selection menu, and are blown away by nearly every dish, from the delicate zucchini flower risotto, to the decadent white asparagus with gooey stracciatella, prawns and smoked tomato, and house-made duck liver pate.

At breakfast, lukewarm buffets are ditched for a short but interesting a la carte menu, made-to-order coffees and a grazing table featuring bircher, yoghurt pots, fruit salad and pastries. My breakfast gnocchi is fresh and uncomplicated.

The verdict

If you went off looks alone, the estate would still be a worthy stay, but a stellar service team and culinary offering has elevated it to another level. It's just what the Hunter Valley needs.

Rooms start from $339 a night. For more information, visit spicersretreats.com