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This was published 4 years ago

Hotel review: Nature and luxury collide at Silky Oaks Lodge following $20 million face-lift

Katherine Scott

Silky Oaks Lodge Riverhouse Suite Balcony

The iconic lodge has undergone a tasteful face-lift. Silky Oaks Lodge

The latest jewel in the crown of the renowned Baillie Lodges group, Silky Oaks reopened on December 23, following an extensive $20 million refurbishment aimed at bringing the stunningly-located property in line with its luxury portfolio.

Enjoying a rare position on the banks of the serene Mossman River, within the World Heritage-listed Daintree National Park, acquiring the property in 2019 was a logical next move for the brand, who specialist in wilderness lodges, including the celebrity-frequented Capella Lodge on Lord Howe Island, and the iconic Longitude 131° at Uluru-Kata Tjuta.

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Located around 20 minutes from Port Douglas, or an hour-and-a-half's drive from Cairns Airport, we opt to self-drive to the property — though if you aren't planning on doing any day trips into town, you can pre-arrange shuttles or transfers.

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Silky Oaks Lodge Jungle Perch

The breezy Jungle Perch pavillion is a perfect spot for a sundowner. Silky Oaks Lodge

Accommodations of this calibre should have an entrance to match, and unfortunately, a lack of signage makes the journey from the car park to reception a confusing one.

We soon spot a friendly staff member who whisks our luggage away and leads us through a labyrinth of lagoon pools and dappled wooden walkways, into a breezy, plantation-style, lounge bar perched above the river.

We're offered cooling refresher towels and welcome drinks, as we're checked in and given the lay of the land.

For the next two nights, we're staying in one of the newly-revamped Riverhouse Retreat rooms, designed to make the most of the lodge's unique natural surrounds.

No, you won't find a TV here (aside from the single unit in the communal media room). However, you will clock a dreamy rain shower, a ginormous freestanding outdoor tub, a river-facing verandah with a hammock, lavish amenities from the on-site Healing Waters Spa including Australian-made Sodashi skincare, and a kitted minibar of drinks and snacks, replenished daily and inclusive for all guests.

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Silky Oaks Lodge Riverhouse Retreat outdoor bathtub

Our Riverhouse Retreat features a ginormous outdoor tub overlooking the Mossman River. Silky Oaks Lodge

Technology plays a supporting role, rather than a leading one, with rooms featuring a Bose Bluetooth speaker system (perfect for some background tunes while sharing a bottle of Gilbert Rosé from the minibar on the verandah).

There are mod-cons like Nespresso machines, air-con (important), an overhead fan, and a small library of books, as well as thoughtful extras, including umbrellas (a wet season essential), backpacks and bug repellant.

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Next door to our retreat, the open-air Marrdja Pavilion hosts daily morning yoga classes to the soothing soundtrack of the river, while below the lodges guests will find day beds and a kiosk stacked with canoes and inflatable water hammocks, handy for those cooling river dips.

Silky Oaks Lodge Riverhouse Retreat

Technology isn't obtrusive in the revamped retreats. Silky Oaks Lodge

Tropical breakfasts and multi-course dinners are also included in the room rate, and are a definite highlight of the stay.

In the early evenings, guests congregate in the lounge bar for complimentary drinks and canapés. The canapés are no joke either — they arrive plated, a tantalising medley of morsels, including pork rillette on cylinders of brioche, salty-sweet potato chips, and beer-battered red emperor crowned with aoili.

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At dinner time, guests can opt for the complimentary matching wines, or choose from a solid selection of included drops, and extremely well-priced premium wines.

The menu flirts with native ingredients, without becoming gimmicky. One night, we're feasting on plum-glazed kangaroo loin with mushroom and chamomile cream, capped with duck yellow curry with zingy pineapple, lime and coconut rice. The next night, it's a glorious Asian banquet, chocked with everything from fall-apart tamarind-glazed sticky beef short ribs to shitake and macadamia spring rolls.

Almost everything is house-made, from the bread to the XO sauce (it's made with bonito and scallop as the chef has a shellfish allergy, we're told).

Silky Oaks Lodge lagoon pool

The lodge features an impressive lagoon-style pool, though with the river right on your doorstep, you may not use it at all. Silky Oaks Lodge

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If lazing in the hammock isn't your style, there are a number of river — and river-adjacent — activities and walking tracks to explore. Though fair warning, the trails become precarious during the wet season, and billowy dust clouds of mozzies trail behind you at all times.

The retreat provides a handy guidebook for the walking tracks, featuring 50 markers for landmarks and native plants (I barely spot 10; my focus is on staying upright).

We, rather ambitiously, follow the Fig Tree Rapids trail, a two-hour round-trip that eventually turns into a single, ascending track. We don't recommend this option for less experienced hikers.

Verdict

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The staff really go the extra mile. Thoughtful touches like a small honeymoon gift (a Daintree tea towel), and chocolate dessert scrawled with a cursive 'Congratulations' don't go unnoticed. When lodge staff hear we've booked a river drift snorkelling experience on our final morning, they arrange a late 2.30pm check out, so we can shower and freshen up before the drive back to Cairns Airport.

Of course, nothing quite comes close to those river dips in the rain. Australia has no shortage of upmarket resorts but only Silky Oaks has the Mossman River. The location was always phenomenal, and now it has the facilities to match.

The writer stayed as a guest of Silky Oaks Lodge. For information or bookings visit silkyoakslodge.com.au.

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