British surfer lucky to survive big wave

Not everyone would consider themselves lucky after ending up with bruised ribs, a lung injury and split ear, but that’s exactly how a British surfer felt after a big wave competition in Portugal.

Cornwall’s Tom Butler was at a World Surf League event in Nazare when tonnes of water came crashing down on him after he fell off a 10 metre wave.

Ranked 37 in the Big Wave World Tour, he was "hit by a bit of chop" before he fell and was engulfed in water.

"I feel very grateful to not be hurt worse," he said, watching video footage of his fall.

"A square cubic metre of water weighs a tonne, so anyone watching the video will see quite a few tonnes coming down on my head."

We can only suggest that maybe next time Butler sticks to the surf at Blackpool where the waves are kinder.