The one rule that has made Wimbledon what it is today
The Wimbledon Championships are known for – alongside the players’ pure skill and talent – refined elegance.
This image comes from a centuries-old style rule that is still strictly enforced today – the wearing of tennis whites.
Wimbledon has a strict rule that has kept its reptation elevated. AP Photo/Tim Ireland
According to Robert Lake, author of A Social History of Tennis in Britain, white clothes have always been aligned with “upper-middle-class leisure historically”, such as with sports like cricket.
“White hides sweat the best, looks clean, sharp and tidy,” he said.
Since the beginning of the tournament in 1877, all garments worn on court must be white – not cream, not off-white, white.
Everything from medical supports to shoes and laces, even underwear must be white, lest perspiration causes coloured underwear to show through.
Over time, some colour has been allowed. The tennis tournament generously allows a one centimetre-wide strip of colour around the neckline, around the cuff of the sleeves, and down the outside seam of any shorts, skirts and tracksuit bottoms.
Any patterned clothes are considered a solid mass of colour and should also only be within the one-centimetre guide. Any logos formed by variations of material or patterns, or for manufacturers, are not acceptable.
The biggest change has come in recent years, with the tennis organisation allowing female players to wear “solid, mid/dark-coloured undershorts provided they are no longer than their shorts or skirt”.
Many were delighted by the change, especially British tennis player Heather Watson, who told Sky News at the time, “When Wimbledon announced that about the under-shorts, I was so happy because it makes such a big difference...
“I speak openly about my period and being on my period. I don’t think it’s a taboo subject. I would love for people to talk about it more, especially women in sport.”
Let’s take a look at all the best Wimbledon looks throughout history and how they skirted the rules to create court couture.
Suzanne Lenglen, 1920s
Though it looks restrictive by today’s standards, French tennis player Suzanne Lenglen was considered very innovative in the 1920s when she shortened her hems and wore a headscarf during her tennis matches, which allowed for more mobility on the court.
Suzanne Lenglen's tennis outfits were innovative for the 1920s. Getty Images
Gertrude Moran, 1950
Gertrude Moran wasn’t shy about her love of fashion, causing a stir in 1949 when she wore lace-trimmed knickers that were visible underneath her skirt.
The next year, she took it up a notch by showing off her bloomers in an outfit designed by Pierre Balmain.
Gertrude (Gussie) Moran in her "temptress" dress. Photo by Daily Express Photograph
Lea Pericoli, 1964
Italian tennis player Lea Pericoli was another fashion darling, often playing with different textures. In 1964, she turned heads by wearing a dress with a skirt made of 500 swans’ feathers.
Italian tennis star Lea Pericoli wearing a tennis dress trimmed with feathers, designed by British sportswear designer Teddy Tinling. Getty Images
Margaret Court, 1960
Aussie tennis player Margaret Court played with colour in a bold pink trim on her wide collar, paired with chunky buttons. The iconic look made a statement at the time and remains popular today.
Margaret Court's bold pink trim caught everyone's eye. Getty Images
Billie Jean King, 1975
American tennis player Billie Jean King won the 1975 championships wearing a white dress with a trim featuring blue flowers, and white sneakers with blue laces.
When she went to accept her trophy, she dared to put a blue cardigan over the top, remaining memorable for years to come.
Wearing a white dress with blue floral trim and matching Adidas trainers, she added a blue cardigan to accept her trophy from the Duke of Kent, creating an iconic look.
Billie Jean King wore blue when she won in 1975. Allsport UK
Anne White, 1985
USA’s Anne White certainly turned heads when, in 1985, she stepped onto the court in a white full Lycra bodysuit,
Though she wasn’t breaking the rules in any way, she was breaking convention, as no one had ever seen such a break from the tradition of wearing skirts.
“I had no idea it would be so controversial,” she said at the time.
In addition, White wore a paisley print headband to add some colour.
Anne White's one-piece bodysuit, which sparked plenty of attention from fans and photographers. Getty Images
Steffi Graf, 1993
Steffi Graf paid homage to the ’80s with the retro maximalist print on the sleeves of her white Adidas jacket when she won in 1993.
Germany Steffi Graf holding winning trophy at the All England Club. London, England. Caryn Levy
Anna Kournikova, 2002
In 2002, Anna Kournikova played with different shapes for her outfit, creating an asymmetrical vest with an off-centre V-neck and a curved hem.
She even added a white visor, completing the stylish look.
Anna Kournikova chose an asymmetrical look for the 2002 tournament Phil Cole
Serena Williams, 2008
Serena Williams has pushed the bounds of on-court fashion for years, but one of her most memorable moments was when she incorporated her love of coats and wore a white one created by Nike on court.
“I live in Florida and I probably have more coats than anybody, ” she explained at the time, “I just love coats, and I’m always buying them. I don’t know why as I live in Florida – it just doesn’t add up.”
Serena Williams incorporated her love of coats into her Wimbledon outfit. nna\madhurima.haque
Maria Sharapova, 2008
Also playing on fashion, Maria Sharapova decided to compete in a tuxedo-inspired outfit.
Designed by Nike with a tuxedo bib front, a low-slung waist, pin-stripe-effect fabric, and gold-stitched buttons, the set was inspired by traditional English tailoring.
It caused a lot of backlash, with many thinking it was too glamorous for the court. Her opponent, fellow Russian Alla Kudryavtseva, also admitted that she didn’t like the experiment.
Maria Sharapova was inspired by English tailoring. Getty Images
Venus Williams, 2010
Serena is not the only Williams sister to have a great sense of fashion.
Venus played with textures for her outfit in 2010s championships, wearing a lacy and sparkly top with a fringed skirt.
Venus Williams' outfit relied on texture. Getty Images
Marta Kostyuk, 2024
Ukrainian tennis player Marta Kostyuk added a special element to her Wimbledon outfit in 2024. Eagle-eyed fans noticed that her kit looked very similar to her wedding dress she wore a year prior.
The player confirmed that Wilson designed both her Wimbledon outfit and her stunning wedding dress. Known as ‘The Marta dress’, her on-court outfit featured a deep V-neckline and flowy skirt paired with shorts underneath for easy mobility.
Her bridal gown kept this silhouette as a base, adding cut-outs to the backless dress, and a flowing, long skirt with floral appliques all over.
Marta Kostyuk's 2024 Wimbledon dress was inspired by her bridal gown Francois Nel
“Everything that was in my wedding dress is the same in the tennis dress because it’s the way I live my life on and off the court,” she shared on Wilson’s website, adding that she plans to frame her on-court outfit.
“I’ll hang it on the wall somewhere! It definitely will be one of the highlights of my life and my career!”
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