Italian fashion legend Valentino Garavani dies at 93

Italian fashion legend Valentino Garavani has died at 93.

The designer, whose elegant evening gowns were favoured for decades by some of the world's most glamorous women, passed surrounded by his family.

He "peacefully passed away today at his residence in Rome, surrounded by the love of his family," a statement posted to Instagram by his foundation.

Born in the northern town of Voghera, Italy, in 1932, Valentino – who was popularly known by his first name – learned his trade in the haute couture ateliers in Paris before founding his own line in Rome in 1959. Early on, he became known for his red dresses, in a rich scarlet shade that became his signature colour to the extent that it was known within the industry as "Valentino red".

In 1960, he met his long-time business partner (and, for 12 years, romantic partner) Giancarlo Giammetti, then a young architecture student. Together, the pair turned Valentino SpA into an internationally recognised brand.

One of Valentino's first famous customers was the actress Elizabeth Taylor, whom he met while she was filming Cleopatra in Rome in the early 1960s.

Other glamorous followers — and buyers — of Valentino's work in the early years of his career included Begum Aga Khan, Queen Paola of Belgium, the actresses Audrey Hepburn and Joan Collins and Jacqueline Kennedy, who even wore a Valentino gown to wed Greek shipping giant Aristotle Onassis in 1968.

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His popularity would continue as the decades progressed.

Valentino spent much of the 1970s in New York, surrounded by a wide circle of friends that included the artist Andy Warhol and Vogue editor Diana Vreeland.

In the 1990s, he became a favourite of the decade's supermodels, including Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell.

His creations also featured regularly on the red carpet.

At the Oscars alone, noteworthy Valentino ensembles over the years have included the heavily-beaded gown Jane Fonda wore in 1981 when she accepted the Best Actor prize for her father, Henry; the vintage black-and-white gown Julia Roberts wore in 2001; the pastel mint caftan-style gown Jennifer Lopez wore in 2003 and the sunshine yellow gown Cate Blanchett wore in 2005. (Both Roberts and Blanchett won Oscars in those respective years.) At the 2011 Academy Awards, Anne Hathaway walked the red carpet in an ornate Fall 2002 Valentino couture gown, accompanied by the designer himself.

In more recent years, Zendaya, Carey Mulligan and Gemma Chan have been among fashion plate Oscars attendees wearing the label to much acclaim.

With his precision tailored suits, suntan and perfectly coiffed hair, Valentino was every bit the quintessential Italian gentleman.

He was an avid collector of Chinese antiques and indulged his love of flowers and topiary in the landscaped grounds of his 17th century Chateau Wideville, outside of Paris, which he bought in 1995. He also had homes in London, Paris, New York, Spain and Gstaad, Switzerland.

He was passionate about his pug dogs and at one time owned six of them: Milton, Monty, Maude, Margot, Maggie and Molly.

"I don't care about the collection," he memorably proclaimed in the 2008 documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor.

"My dogs are more important."

In 1998, Valentino sold his company to the Italian conglomerate HdP for some $300 million, although he continued to work for the company. Valentino retired from the industry in 2008, after more than 45 years, marking the end of one of the longest careers in fashion.

The occasion was marked with a star-studded fashion show at the Musée Rodin in Paris. For the finale, models donned identical "Valentino red" gowns.

The designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were appointed as Valentino's creative directors that year. In 2016, Chiuri was named artistic director at Christian Dior; Piccioli stepped down in 2024 and was appointed creative director at Balenciaga last year.

Following Piccioli's departure, Alessandro Michele has helmed Valentino's design for nearly two years amid a wider industry reshuffling.

For many, Valentino's passing represents the end of a generation of old-world fashion maestros.

And it seems he knew this too.

When he was asked, in the 2008 documentary about his life, about others' claims that he was irreplaceable, Valentino replied with a wry smile: "After me, the deluge."

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