'Our hearts are full of love': Russia basks in World Cup happiness

The World Cup is only a few days old, but already, there’s a particular moment that’ll stick with me forever.

Surprisingly, it didn’t come on the football pitch.

In fact, it has nothing to do with football at all.

It occurred at a bizarre, underground restaurant. The food was pleasant, so too the service.

But it’s what happened next that surprised me most.

After processing our payment, the owner, a beautiful lady with a thick Russian accent, grabbed at my hand.

Clasping it, she asked: “England?"

“No, Australia,” I replied.

Our fixer then told her, via translation, that we were visiting for the World Cup.

She grabbed my hand tighter.

“We are for peace everywhere,” she said. “Russians are for peace. Our hearts are full of love”.

A hug followed. She had a tear streaming down her face.

“Enjoy, please. It means so much that you’re here,” she said as we left the premises.

In pictures: All the colour and action from the World Cup

Russia can be an intimidating place to visit. Smiles can be fleeting, the tourist traps are many, while English is spoken only by young children.

I must admit, arriving in Moscow at the start of the month, we were a little apprehensive. We came here for football and didn’t expect much more.

But for many Russians, this World Cup is so much more than just football and the famous trophy on offer. 

In huge numbers, volunteers patrol the streets dishing out high fives to everyone and anyone.

Dressed in purple, it’s their job to make sure visitors don’t get lost and to actively promote the various attractions of each host city.

Cafes have been renovated. Pubs and bars have extended their opening hours, and in some cases, they’ve run out of beer as a result (apparently the 15,000 Australian visitors are very much to blame).

Tourist shuttles ferry fans between airports, hotels and tourist attractions while police and members of the national guard offer reassurance.

Sure, there’s an active charm offensive in progress. After years of controversy, Vladimir Putin and his government see the World Cup as a massive PR exercise.

But it’s the people, not the government or the President, that are scoring goals.

They love to play host. They love to showcase Russia to the word. And right now, they’re doing an excellent job at it.