A tropical slice of The Bahamas that’s just three hours from Australia

Just a few hours after watching Sydney disappear from my plane window, I arrived in Nouméa, New Caledonia.

And the mountain-clad drive from the airport was so otherworldly that if it wasn’t punctuated by the occasional billboard, I might have forgotten I was still on earth.

I had landed in a paradise on Australia’s doorstep. Indeed, for those dreaming of The Bahamas or Maldives without the expensive long-haul flight, New Caledonia offers just that.

The French Pacific territory is known for its beaches, white sand, overwater bungalows and marine life, including sea snakes, which thankfully are far less dangerous than Australia’s.

It also has some of the most welcoming people I’ve ever met.

While you could easily spend a long weekend enjoying Nouméa’s beaches and restaurants, outside the capital there is an even more enchanting side of New Caledonia.

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I spent a week exploring its islands and while the scenery was more spectacular than I ever could have imagined, the people I met along the way made the trip extra special.

Tropical resorts from a holiday postcard

Just a short boat ride from Nouméa is a tiny island surrounded by water so blue it doesn’t even look real.

It’s home to the DoubleTree by Hilton Nouméa Îlot Maître Resort, where overwater bungalows give the Maldives a serious run for their money.

Stepping off the boat, I was greeted with the hotel’s signature warm chocolate chip cookie and as I made my way to my room, I spotted one of countless turtles I saw during my stay.

Naturally, there was only one thing to do, so I popped on my swimmers and headed straight for the water.

The lagoon that surrounds Îlot Maître is part of a protected marine area, which means its jaw-dropping wildlife is on full display.

The resort also has a swimming pool, restaurant and bar, with a buffet dinner that has plenty of delicious options.

The island I will never forget

As beautiful as Îlot Maître was, the undeniable highlight of my trip was the island of Lifou.

A roughly 40-minute flight from the main island, Lifou is the largest of New Caledonia’s Loyalty Islands, with a population of less than 10,000 people.

Alongside Drehu, the island’s Indigenous language, French and English are also spoken.

The resort is a beachfront hideaway dripping in luxury, with 50 rooms and suites offering views across the forest, river or ocean.

It remains the most amazing hotel I’ve ever stayed in, but you need to take the time to properly explore the whole property, finding secluded beaches and secret caves along the way.

At times, turtles swam so close to me, I could have touched them.

Somehow, every beach managed to outdo the last, with the water switching between electric turquoise and deep blue.

The other side to Lifou

Lifou’s beauty is more than enough reason to visit, but spending time learning about its culture is almost more important.

I came to visit the island’s annual Sandalwood and Honey Festival, and it is a part of my holiday I wish everyone could experience.

The festival celebrates locals, traditional crafts like weaving and the island’s cultural heritage, offering food, music, dancing and festivities alongside a stretch of water.

There were stalls selling everything from locally made and award-winning honey to sandalwood products and produce grown in the area.

I also visited the House of Vanilla, where I learned about the extreme level of care and patience it takes to spend years transforming the vines into products, almost all of which I couldn’t resist buying.

It is a process contributed to by much of the community, many of whom grow the pods themselves to sell to the vanilla producer. I hope the divine scent of that tour never leaves my memory.

It would be remiss of me not to mention the food because I am still dreaming of it.

Some of the festival stalls were run by local kids who made and sold yummy meals themselves to raise money for trips to Australia and New Zealand.

There was also bougna. I managed to grab a full plate of the traditional Kanak dish made with yam, taro, coconut milk, and meat or seafood, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked underground.

The preparation process proves how much of what we need for our day-to-day lives is naturally provided for, with coconut shells being used to scrape off hot coals and tongs made from a split bamboo shoot that seem even easier to use than what you can buy.

During my time on the island, people were beyond generous, taking their time to share their traditions and pride in their home with me, ensuring I never felt like a tourist.

Staying with a local family

That generosity managed to go up a notch when I arrived at Chez Jeannette Ihage, a more traditional place to stay in Lifou.

The Indigenous Kanak people have maintained a deep connection to tradition, with systems like tribal governance and clan structures still in place.

The round huts that are built using materials from the island are an important part of Kanak culture, with many residents still living in them.

Before visiting, I was told of the custom of presenting a small gift as a gesture of respect.

With my offering in hand, I was welcomed by Jeannette, who runs the guesthouse. She and her granddaughter cooked up a phenomenal meal of yam and prawns that was arguably my favourite of the holiday.

Before departing, I was the most excited to spend a night in one of the traditional huts.

Aside from being very comfortable and cozy, I have otherwise never had the chance to do something so unique, adding another level of appreciation.

In line with the culture, the accommodation focuses on bringing people together through its communal eating area, kitchen and bathrooms.

I was also invited to step inside the larger hut where Jeannette’s family sleeps together.

Each night, a fire is lit to ensure the straw roof stays dry and to keep the family warm. It is almost identical to the way their ancestors would have lived centuries ago, with the addition of electricity.

Jeannette explained their home is built in a way that keeps them comfortable each night, even with the summer temperatures.

Another island worth the journey

When visiting, it is difficult to pass up the chance to visit the Isle of Pines, which really does have a staggering amount of pine trees.

It’s best known to Aussies as a cruise ship destination, but well worth spending a bit more time here.

I stayed at Hotel Kou Bugny, close to the stunning Kuto Bay, where the sand is white and super fine and the water looks like it has been digitally altered.

The hotel’s owner Elaine told me fascinating stories about the land and its history, including the truth behind Queen Hortense’s Cave.

“During her childhood, faced with wars of succession within the chiefdom and threats to her life, [Hortense] found a safe haven in this cave dug out by the Oumagne tribe,” Elaine said.

“A stone slab inside the cave served as a bed for the young princess, who was being hidden by her local followers.”

Another of the highlights was a traditional outrigger trip, which took us across the water to get a closer look at the island’s coastline.

Another must-see is the island’s famous natural swimming pool at Oro Bay, where the clear water shelters coral and supports floating rock formations, creating the perfect spot for swimming and snorkelling.

The Isle of Pines is also known for its giant snails, a local delicacy for those, like myself, who are feeling adventurous.

A slice of France in Nouméa

Back on the main island, Nouméa offers an entirely different experience. As a French territory, New Caledonia has a strong European influence, particularly when it comes to food.

I stayed at the Ramada Hotel Nouméa, which is conveniently located near the Anse Vata waterfront. It’s a great place to explore the capital from, with beaches, restaurants and cafés close by.

Another great option is Le Domaine Nouméa, a resort-style hotel.

There was plenty of time to explore the city, enjoy the water views, and visit a supermarket, and to devour another mouth-watering meal, which on this occasion was at Marmite et Tire-Bouchon.

For those who want the feeling of an overseas holiday without spending days travelling, Nouméa makes a fantastic long-weekend option.

Another memorable stop on my journey was Te Mana Lodge, in Tomo, where I spent a night between islands.

The accommodation offered a quieter, more intimate experience close to the airport that included a home-cooked meal and the best mango juice I’ve ever had, made straight from the endless fruit trees on the property.

The verdict

One of the best parts of New Caledonia is how close it is to Australia, with a flight from Sydney to Nouméa taking around three hours.

While it’s possible to visit Nouméa and another island over a long weekend, I’d recommend staying longer.

Despite spending a week between the main island, Lifou and Isle of Pines, I still wished I had more time.

I suppose makes for a good excuse to visit again.

The writer travelled as a guest of New Caledonia Tourism.